This article will cover types of illnesses that puppies could get, kinds of vaccinations, and schedules.

Importance of puppy vaccinations

The first year of a puppy’s life is very crucial. She may get some immunity through the colostrum—the special first milk that a mother dog gives to her newborn, which contains antibodies against certain illnesses.

But this colostrum will not be enough to protect against the many diseases that your puppy can catch. She could be vulnerable particularly when she comes from a breeding kennel or a shelter. Such areas could have infectious viruses and bacteria that can spread fast between dogs and puppies alike.

The vaccinations will help to boost the immune system of the dog. Eventually, when she becomes an adult dog, her body will be able to provide her with long-term disease and disease protection that she has been vaccinated against.

Types of illnesses

These are some of the prevalent bacterial, viral, or parasitic diseases and diseases that your puppy may develop, most of which may be avoided from infecting your puppy with the proper vaccinations.

Bordetella Bronchiseptica

This is a type of bacteria that is highly infectious. It is the main cause of kennel cough. It can cause whooping cough, vomiting, seizures, or even death.

Canine Distemper

Distemper is caused by a highly contagious airborne virus. When a sneezing or vomiting sick dog may infect other animals. Food and water bowls and equipment that are used by an affected animal can also transmit the virus. The disease affects the animals ‘ nervous, gastrointestinal and respiratory systems.

Thickening and hardening of the footpads is the most common effect of this disease. That’s why it’s sometimes called a hard pad disease. Nevertheless, other symptoms include watery eyes, runny nose, coughing, fever diarrhea, vomiting, twitching, seizures and paralysis.

Canine distemper has no treatment. But the symptoms can be treated to provide supportive care for a dog. The treatments can prevent vomiting and seizures and help stop the incidence of secondary infections.

If a dog manages to overcome the symptoms, then through its natural immune system, the dog can fight the disease. If the disease is too much for the dog’s body, death could occur.

Canine Hepatitis

Canine hepatitis is from a virus that is different from the one that affects humans. But just like in humans, hepatitis primarily goals the liver, spleen, and kidneys. Secondary targets are the lungs and eyes.

There is no cure for canine hepatitis just like canine distemper. It may be a mild or severe disease. Through proper care, a dog can conquer a mild form. A severe form could result in death.

You will know that a dog has canine hepatitis through the following symptoms: jaundice, pain in the liver area, slight fever, runny nose, vomiting, and stomach enlargement.

Canine Parainfluenza

This is the dog equivalent of flu. It can be mild or severe. It is also one of many viruses that lead to kennel cough.

Corona Virus

The primary goal of this virus is the gastrointestinal (GI) systems of a dog. But it can also affect the respiration system of a dog. A sick dog will show the following symptoms of vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, and other GI issues. There is no cure for this virus. All vets can do is try to ease the pain and hydrate the dog.

Giardia

This one is due to a parasite, unlike many diseases that dogs get. The giardia is not actually a bacteria, a virus, or a worm It is a one-celled parasite that can be found in contaminated water. But it can also be spread by infected animals ‘ urine. Giardia’s “cysts” type may live in water or moist conditions for months.

A dog who sniffs or eats the poop or drinks contaminated water can get infected. The dog will have acute diarrhea that has a green tint and bloody discharges. Some will have a fever.

A pet can use proper medication and regular hydration to fight the disease. Yet two to four weeks after diagnosis, the affected animal should be re-examined because there may be risk of a relapse.

Heartworm

As its name suggests, heartworm originates from a worm that burrows into the heart’s arteries and the pulmonary system that sends blood to the lungs. These worms may sometimes grow in the livers or kidneys. A worm can grow up to 14 inches in size. They can block the blood flow or injure the organs they grow in when worms clump together.

Mosquitoes are the carriers of heartworms. An infected dog may not exhibit symptoms during the initial stages of the condition. But when the worms are big, a dog can cough, lose her appetite, become lethargic, have difficulty breathing, or tire easily.

This condition does not have a vaccine, but it can be prevented through regular medications. Only a blood test can indicate if a dog has heartworms.

Kennel Cough

This condition is also known as tracheobronchitis infectious. Kennel cough occurs when the upper respiratory tract of a dog becomes inflamed. There are many causes of kennel cough, as mentioned above. It can develop due to viral, bacterial, or other infections. A cough may be due to two or more infections most of the time.

It is very contagious. It can pass from one dog to another if they always close together. This is why it is called kennel cough. It can spread among the dogs in one kennel very fast.

Kennel cough produces mild cases of dry coughing. Gagging, retching, or vomiting can result in severe cases. A dog can lose her appetite as well. This condition is rarely fatal.

Certain antibiotics can be administered to a dog with a severe case of kennel cough. Cough suppressants can also help ease the pain of coughing for certain dogs.

Leptospirosis

The urine of mammals transmits this type of bacteria. If an infected animal pees and puts the bacteria in the soil and water, the infection can spread when another animal comes into contact with the soil and water.

Leptospirosis can affect humans and animals alike. At first, a dog will not show any changes. But she will itch, experience a fever, nausea, abdominal pain, loss of appetite, lethargy, jaundice, fatigue, and muscle pain when she does. Extreme cases can result in failure of the kidney or liver.

Antibiotics can combat this disease. The medicine should be given as soon as possible for it to be very effective.

Lyme Disease

The bulls-eye rash that humans get when they have Lyme disease is not shown in animals. Yet dogs can get sick with ticks just like humans. The infection mainly affects the joints kidneys and heart of a dog. A dog that spends a lot of time outside is more likely to get this disease.

Symptoms of an infected dog include limping, swollen lymph nodes, increased body temperature, and loss of appetite. Antibiotics can fight the disease. But a dog can have relapses months or years later.

Parvovirus

More commonly known as parvo, this virus can infect all dogs But dogs that are four months old or younger and older dogs that have not been vaccinated have higher chances of getting the infection.

Parvo is aimed at the GI system. A dog has blood in the urine most of the time has severe diarrhea. She is also losing her appetite, coughing, running a fever. Dehydration, which can kill a dog, is one of the threats of parvo.

Like other canine diseases, parvo has no cure. But a dog who manages to overcome the symptoms and keeps hydrated throughout an episode can beat the illness. 

Rabies

The viral disease can often affect all mammals through an affected animal’s bite. This affects the central nervous system. Infection symptoms include water fear, light sensitivity, headaches, hallucinations, anxiety, excessive drooling, and death.

Rabies has a treatment, unlike many of the diseases listed here. Within hours of a bite, antirabies shots should be given. In many states, there are laws requiring owners to vaccinate their dogs against rabies at a young age.

Table of Vaccination Schedule and Types

A puppy needs several vaccinations during the first few weeks of her life.

There are some vaccines that should be given to all dogs These are the main vaccines for deadly diseases that are required by law such as shots of antirabies. Some shots may be optional depending on multiple factors like:

Your puppy’s unique physical requirements;

Her breed (puppies with flat faces are more susceptible to getting pneumonia);

Her lifestyle (whether she is outdoors a lot);

Where you live (if there are bodies of water or dirty places that your puppy could play in);

How many pets are in your home (some diseases spread fast from an infected dog); or,

If there are strays, other pets, or other animals that your puppy will regularly come in contact with.

Getting your dog vaccinated can be daunting with so many infections and vaccines to consider. Your veterinarian will tell you about your puppy’s timetable. In general, however, the vaccination schedule and type should be as follows:

A multivalent vaccine like the DHPPLC means a single dose containing different strains of antigens. Giving this to a puppy means less needle poking for your puppy.

Some vets believe that adult dogs do not need regular vaccines and that too many shots may still pose health risks to a dog. But others believe that annual vaccinations are necessary to stop dogs from being infected by harmful bacteria or viruses.

Vaccination costs

The total cost of the vaccines of your dog would depend on factors such as the location of the clinic of your vet. A clinic situated in a highly urbanized city can cost much more than one in a small rural town. Animal shelters and public veterinary clinics may charge less or offer them free of charge at times.

On average, core vaccines could cost around $75-$100. Antirabies shots could be $15-$20.

But no matter the cost, it is your responsibility to make sure your puppy acquires at least the core or required vaccines, especially the antirabies shots.

Make sure that you have up-to-date proof of your dog’s shot chart. Whether you ‘re going to adopt or buy a puppy, get her shooting record chart If you can’t get the chart your vet may recommend starting all the vaccines from scratch just to be on the safe side.

Conclusion

To have your puppy vaccinated, an almost weekly visit to the vet may seem inconvenient and a big drain on your finances. But this can stop the dog from contracting some life-threatening illnesses or going through so much future pain. Your puppy grows up into a loving dog with tiny kisses and big slobbers in exchange.

The post Vaccinations and Shots For Puppies: Importance, Table Of Vaccination Schedule and Types & Costs first appeared on PetXU.com.

If the puppy has a mother to suckle on, then just leave everything up to the mother. She will provide all the care and food that the puppy needs at this stage.

But what should you do when your dog begins eating solid food and drinking water? Here are some general advice that you can observe to give your puppy the perfect time to introduce solid foods or water.

When should I introduce solid foods and water to my puppy?

When she is two weeks old, the teeth of a puppy beginning to come out. She will have her complete set of 28 teeth by weeks 5-6, and when this occurs, her mom will begin to wean her. The puppy will be completely weaned by weeks 6-7.

When do puppies start eating solid food and drinking water?

So, from weeks 3-4, you can start introducing solid food and water to your puppy. The timing of this introduction is crucial.

Giving solid foods to your puppy too soon can adversely affect her health. Her digestive system may not be able to manage strong foods before she is three weeks old So she might be unable to digest her meal or vomit the food. Also, if she subsists on strong food and water before weeks 6-7 instead of her mother’s milk, she may not get the right nutrients to combat disease and develop well.

When you begin to introduce solid foods, the puppy will be drinking milk. Probably she is going to disregard the food and water for milk, but be patient. The puppy will instinctively look for an alternative source of food and drink when her mom begins to wean her.

How do I introduce solid food and water to my puppy?

Set up a feeding station in an out-of-the-way part of the nest. This area should be warm and free from drafts.

Place the puppy food and water in clean, shallow pans. Put a rug under the pans because the puppy will most likely make a mess if she explores the new things in front of her. Especially the water is going to be tricky as she doesn’t understand how to drink yet. During this time, if you use kibble, soak it in water or provide something simple to digest.

Make sure that the mother dog does not mind you handling her puppy.

Wash your hands then take the puppy to the feeding area. Let her explore the feeding station. Encourage her to try the puppy food.

Do not leave the puppy alone. She might accidentally plop into the water bowl or gorge too much on the food.

Make her stay in the area for a few minutes. Then clean her up and put her back to the area where her mother is.

Every time you take your puppy to the feeding station, make the time longer and longer. This is one way of helping her get rid of sucking her mother. You can also begin to give solid food that is not previously soaked in liquid.

What solid food should I feed my puppy?

Giving your puppy solid food, which is particularly formulated for puppies, is better. Usually high in protein, this form of puppy food is enhanced with fats, minerals, and vitamins. Look at the ingredients and verify that the first few ingredients are listed as the source of protein. Search on the labels for the phrases “puppy” or “all life stages.”

There are also puppy foods produced for specific breeds. Large breeds need additional protein to develop bones and muscles through slow but sustained development. They need a lot of calories. Small breeds meanwhile need food that can be readily digested. They also need diets that are high in protein but low in calories.

You can choose from many brands. Many companies are testing their products in order to guarantee that by eating their food, puppies attain maximum growth. Just to be on the safe side, discover puppy food with the AAFCO (American Food Control Officials Association) seal. This implies the company has fulfilled the minimum dog food standards.

Never give your puppy table scraps or other cooked human foods. Food cooked for human consumption contains a great deal of salt, spices, and ingredients that can be detrimental to canines. Do not let your dog have a taste for human food, or as she grows up she may build a liking for it.

How much should I feed my puppy?

The main tip is to look at the guidelines printed on the puppy food and adjust to the situation and appetite of your puppy. Keep an eye your kitten. Although your puppy needs a lot of food to keep her growing quickly, you shouldn’t overfeed her. She might throw up her meals or poop a lot if you overfeed her.

If you’re still unsure, consult your vet.

How often to feed a puppy? When should I feed my puppy?

The most significant thing is to maintain a regular feeding time. Don’t just leave out food and let your puppy eat whenever it likes. Train her from puppyhood to eat food only at a particular time.

How many times a day should i feed my dog?

So, whether you feed your puppy every two hours or three times a day or twice a day, the regularity of the schedule is more important so that your dog starts to get into a routine.

Take notice, however, that small breeds, such as Chihuahuas, tend to contract a disease called hypoglycemia or low blood sugar. This implies that they always have to consume something to maintain their blood sugar at the right level. Blood sugar or glucose is your dog’s primary source of energy. Having a low level of blood sugar could lead to a reduction in energy, and sometimes it could lead to a loss of consciousness if it becomes too low.

Also, so that you know how much you are feeding your puppy, weigh the food per day then divide it per meal.

Why should I give water to my puppy?

Water keeps your puppy hydrated. Plus, it helps break down food so that the nutrients can be properly absorbed into your puppy’s body. Water helps clean out unwanted minerals through pee.

Give your puppy plenty of water throughout the day. Double the amount during the summer months. Keep her water bowl clean at all times.

How should I care for an orphaned or rejected puppy?

A mother can’t take care of her kitten at times. She may not have enough milk to supply her pup with the nutrients she needs. She might detect illness in a puppy and thus reject it. During or after whelping, she may die. Whatever the case may be, taking care of the puppy will be up to you. Follow these rules to feed a motherless puppy.

What to feed newborn puppies without mother?

1. Take the puppy to the vet for a check-up. You can also consult the vet on the best equipment or puppy formula.

2. Buy nursing equipment.

You’re going to feed the puppy by hand, so choose the right facilities to do that. In general, a feeding bottle or large syringe and latex nipples are needed. There’s a lot of choices, but you can try:

• Pet Ag Nursing Kit, which has a 2-ounce feeding bottle and latex nipples in different shapes and sizes.

• Miracle Nipple for Pets and Wildlife contains a nipple and a syringe.

It’s easier for some individuals to use a feeding bottle with nipple attachments as they just need to maintain the bottle at an angle and let the puppy suckle. The use requires special handling of a syringe. The puppy might be choked by squirting too much formula; squirting too little might make the puppy impatient and suckle air.

3. Buy puppy formula or milk replacement.

The best formula for puppies or replacement of milk should be high in protein, vitamins, and minerals. The calories she requires should be given to the puppy, depending on her breed. As mentioned in this article’s first part, puppies from big breeds need more calories than those from smaller breeds.

Do not purchase a formula containing 100% cow milk. This kinds of milk are too hard for newborn puppies with the immature digestive system. If she drinks cow’s milk, your puppy may have diarrhea.

Also, see how much vegetable oils and egg products a formula contains. Too much of these ingredients might also upset your puppy’s stomach.

A formula made from goat’s milk is ideal since it is less processed and easier to digest.

Some highly-recommended milk replacements for puppies are:

• Esbilac Goat’s milk from dehydrated goat’s milk so you can be sure your puppy’s stomach won’t be upset by drinking it. It has more than 30% of the protein. However, it’s more expensive than other products, so be ready to spend some cash on feeding your newborn puppy.

• Nutri-Vet Milk Replacement Powder for Puppies includes dried whey, animal and vegetable fats, and sodium caseinate. However, the proportion of components was formulated in consultation with vets.

• Happy Dog Baby Milk Probiotic 30/30 comprises components such as whey, soy, gelatin, skimmed milk and other. It has low levels of lactose and probiotics, making it simple to digest.

• Ensure proper hygiene at all times.

Your puppy’s immune system is not fully developed yet. So, make sure that you keep everything clean when you feed your puppy.

Wash your hands before you handle the puppy.

Sterilize all equipment before and after use.

Do not feed your puppy formula, which has been kept in the refrigerator or without a refrigerator for more than an hour. It may contain bacteria that can harm the digestive system of your dog.

4. Feed the puppy every two to three hours during the first week. You will probably need to stay up for 24 hours during the first few days because the puppy will be constantly hungry.

After the first week, you can feed her every four hours.

Usually, a puppy will need to feed about 1/8 of its body weight. For example, if the puppy weighs 1/2 pounds, it will need to drink a total of 30 ml (1 oz) of milk substitute for the whole day. Try to weigh the puppy before each feeding so that you can have an idea of how much you’re supposed to feed her.

5. Monitor your puppy all the time.  Since she won’t get colostrum — the mother dog’s milk that provides the puppies, the antibodies that make them immune to certain diseases — then your kitten may be prone to disease.

Also, she will need to gain weight constantly. If she does not gain weight then you should be concerned.

Take her to the vet if you notice her feeling unwell or if she does not gain enough weight despite regular feeding.

Making sure that your puppy is fed properly is part of your responsibility as her owner. But it is also one of the joys of owning a pet.

The post Feeding Newborn Puppies: How Often to Feed a Puppy? When Do Puppies Start Eating Food and Drinking Water? first appeared on PetXU.com.

A mother dog produces colostrum after the puppies are born. Colostrum is a type of milk that is packed with vitamins, electrolytes, antibodies, and other nutrients. Since puppies are born with very weak immune systems, the most significant thing the colostrum will impart is the antibodies. Whatever the mother dog is immune will pass through the colostrum to her puppies.

After the first 24 hours, the mother dog will produce regular milk.

But what can you do if your nursing dog does not produce milk that is enough for the whole litter? How can you help your dog and the puppies?

Mother dog is not producing milk for puppies, how can you help your nursing dog to produce more milk?

Let us explore some options for you.

1. Conduct an initial examination.

Ask yourself these general questions:

• Are there more puppies than teats?
• Could my dog be suffering from malnutrition?
• Could my dog be dehydrated?
• Could my dog be under stress from something other than the whelping?
• Could my dog’s teats be infected?
• Could my dog be having a hormonal imbalance?
• How long has my dog been nursing?

Let’s take a closer look at the issues for each of the questions.

Number of teats – Having a litter of 10-12 puppies is not unusual for a dog. Since dogs only have 8 nipples, during feeding, 2-4 puppies will automatically be unable to drink milk. Also, having at the same time eight puppies drinking from the teats could literally dry your nursing dog.

Malnutrition – pregnant dogs need to consume a lot to provide nutrition for her unborn puppies. She must have more nutrition after giving birth to recover from whelping and generate milk for her puppies. She will need as much as three or four times as much nutrition as she requires per day for this period alone.

If her weight suddenly drops during the nursing period, this means that she is not getting enough calories. So, make sure you monitor her weight.

Dehydration – whelping involves blood and other fluids leaving your dog’s body. Also, dogs don’t drink as much liquid as they should in particular. In addition, milk production needs moisture from the body of your nursing dog.

Stress – whelping or giving birth to puppies for a mother dog is already a stressful activity. For first-time mothers, this stress is doubled as the dog does not understand what to expect during the whelping.

No extra stress is needed for your dog. But she might get this from other things like a noisy environment or too many people around her and touching her puppies. That’s why her nest should be away from foot traffic in a quiet location.

Also, as stated above, she could be overwhelmed, irritated, or even frightened by the number of puppies trying to feed on her. Her reaction to these stressors could be to stop producing milk.

Infection – as stated above, whelping involves blood and other fluids, which could be potential carriers of germs and infection.

Some dogs also develop mastitis. This condition can infect just some of the mammary glands. When an infection occurs, the gland does not produce milk.

Hormonal imbalance – if your nursing dog produces the hormone epinephrine, she could stop producing milk. The correct hormones signal the breasts to produce milk.

Lenght of nursing time – puppies nurse until 4-6 weeks of age. During their first week of life, they need to nurse every 2 hours. Every puppy drinks approximately 5.5 ounces of milk per diet. Bigger breeds are going to drink more.

Some nursing dogs run out of milk after the third week, especially if the litter is very big.

2. Consult a vet.

Remember that each dog is unique so your dog will need specific requirements.

Your vet understands the physical, mental, and behavioral quirks of your nursing dog as well as you do. But your vet was taught to do the required tests and offer the best treatments for a particular condition.

Present to your vet the result of your initial examination. You and your vet are the perfect combo to assist your nursing dog. It’s best to get your vet opinion than leave things to chance.

Follow your vet’s advice. Don’t try to deviate from it unless you consult your vet first.

3. Help your dog overcome her problem.

Try these tips in consultation with your vet:

1) Regarding your dog’s physical limitation, rotate the puppies on the teats.

One way to know that the puppies are starving is if they cry or whine constantly.

The hind teats are the best and generally have the most milk. Some puppies tend to hog many teats. Establish a scheme to give even the smallest puppy an opportunity at the best teats.

This rotation system can help your dog not to be too overwhelmed by her hungry pups.

Be sure that your dog will allow you to handle her pups. Otherwise, she might become angry and bite you if you touch her children.

2) To help your dog get the right amount of calories, vitamins, and minerals, try these tips:

• Give your dog quality food that increases the mother dog’s calorie intake. It is essential to have high fat, high protein, high in vitamins and minerals, food that increases weight. But it must be simple for easy digestion of the food.

Some of the recommended dog foods for lactating dogs are:

Victor Purpose Nutra Pro Dry Dog Food has low carbohydrate and high protein ingredients.

Wild’s dog food formula taste mimics the wild dog’s natural nutrition. Its dog food has probiotics which make it simple to digest the kibble.

Bully Max is a meat-based kibble with a 30/20 formula: 30% protein and 20% fats.

Your nursing dog’s treats should also be very nutritious. Beef jerky, fresh fruits, or cheese are good examples.

• Give her smaller but more frequent meals. Give her 3 to 4 meals throughout the day.

• If she is on a raw diet, make sure that she can digest her food easily.

• Even if you may be tempted to do so, don’t feed your nursing dog with cooked human food. Despite having a lot of calories in human food, it still has a lot of additives that could damage your nursing dog.

3) To help keep your dog hydrated, try these tips:

• Always provide fresh water. Determine if your dog like cold, lukewarm, or warm water.

• Keep her water bowl near her at all times so that she does not have to walk far to drink water.

• Give your dog plain chicken broth with no or very little salt.

• Give your dog goat’s milk or almond milk, which are easy to digest for dogs.

4) One way to help lessen the stress of your nursing dog is to create a safe, comfortable, and quiet environment for it. Tell the other people to leave until you realize your dog is relaxed. Reestablish that your dog is loved.

Also, give your dog a break from nursing and her hungry puppies. In this way, you can reduce her stress from her children.

• Walk your dog when she has the power to do so. Make sure the path is a short and simple one. This physical activity can make her take in some fresh air and de-stress her.

• Give her some mental exercises so that she can forget about her puppies for just a moment.

5) Change the lining of your nursing dog’s nest continuously to avoid infection. Remember that for a few weeks, the nest will become the toilet of the puppies.

Also, have your vet check your nursing dog regularly to make sure they don’t get other infections at this important time.

6) Consider giving your nursing dog some supplements that will boost her ability to produce milk.

Milk thistle is a natural supplement that supports the production of milk by human mothers. It can be used for dogs as well. To generate more milk, some dogs need extra iron, zinc, folic acid, manganese, or selenium.

DX Trophy Dyne High-Calorie Supplement has a flavor of vanilla that can even attract a picky eater. There are 150 calories in each ounce. It may be added to the water or food of your dog.

Be sure that you have your vet’s approval before giving supplements, though. Too much of a vitamin or mineral could make your nursing dog’s condition worse.

4. Nurse the puppies.

If your dog does not generate milk in spite of all your attempts and the efforts of your vet, you will have to nurse your puppies. Buy a milk substitute and facilities such as feeding cans that are suitable for the puppies with the assistance of your vet.

Try these nursing equipments:

• Pet Ag Nursing Kit has all the facilities you need to hand-fed puppies. Each kit includes what you need: latex nipples in various forms that imitate the teats of an animal, a 2-ounce feeding bottle with tablespoon markings for easier milk formula measurement, and a bottle cleaning brush. The nipples are hard. These can be cleaned by sterilization.

• Miracle Nipple has distinct dimensions for pets and wildlife. You can purchase the mini version for puppies. Every kit has a syringe and a nipple. The base of the nipple is broad, so it perfectly fits the syringe. But it’s long enough for a puppy to be able to latch on the nipple as they do with the teat of a mother dog.

Milk replacements need to have a lot of calories and nutrients, most especially proteins. The proteins are important because they help in the development of the puppies’ muscles and organs.

Do not feed cow’s milk substitutes. This sort of milk is going to be too hard on the stomachs of puppies and may trigger diarrhea for the puppies. It is better to replace milk with goat’s milk as it is simpler to digest.

Try these puppy formulas:

• Esbilac Goat’s Milk contains dehydrated goat’s milk and over 30% protein.

• Nutri-Vet Milk Replacement Powder for Puppies is veterinary-formulated.

• Happy Dog Baby Milk Probiotic 30/30 contains ingredients that promote growth.

Feed the puppies every two to three hours.

Keep your nursing dog engaged in the artificial nursing process. It doesn’t mean that she rejects her puppies just because she doesn’t nurse them Make sure she’s not stressed by taking her puppies away from her by you or someone else. This form of nursing should also only be complementary.

Summary

You have plenty of options to help your dog spend the nursing time, especially when it doesn’t make milk. Make sure she receives plenty of nutritious food and sufficient liquid. Keep calm and tidy the nesting location. Have her frequently checked by the vet.

Remember, a healthy dog is a happy mother dog. And a happy mother dog can lead to happy and satisfied puppies.

The post Mother Dog is Not Producing Milk For Puppies? Dog Foods For Lactating Dogs first appeared on PetXU.com.

If you are one of the lucky ones who need to care for these beings, then here is a guide on:

• The physical and behavioral changes of newborn puppies from 0-8 weeks (0-2 months).

• How to care for newborn puppies.

0-1 Week Old: Newborn Puppies

1. Physical and behavioral changes

Puppies are born with closed eyes, dysfunctional ears and nostrils, and toothless mouths. They’re born hungry as well.

After whelping, their mother goes through the following steps:

• bite their amniotic sacs open;

• lick their noses, mouths, and bodies, so they learn to breathe;

• chew through their umbilical cords;

• push them toward a nipple so they can drink milk.

The first feeding is essential for the future health of the puppies. The milk of a mother dog includes colostrum that offers the puppies with antibodies. The antibodies can help keep the puppies immune from some diseases. 

Puppies are also born without the ability to regulate their body temperature. So, they need warmth from their mother and litter-mates.

Puppies spend 90% of their time napping interspersed with 10% nursing. So their weight should double during the first week.

The mother dog does and provides everything that the puppies need. She licks the puppies’ genitalia and anus to stimulate them to pee and poop. She grooms their fur.

Some mother dogs can be quite possessive about their puppies. It is best not to handle the puppies unless you are sure the mother dog will allow you to do so.

At this stage, the best thing you can do is make sure the nest’s lining is always clean. During whelping, blood and amniotic fluids will be discharged. These may carry germs that might affect the puppies or infect them. The puppies are going to pee and poop on the lining every day. So, you have to be vigilant and make sure you meet your obligation.

2. Reasons to handle newborn puppies

Mother dogs instinctively know what to do when they give birth to puppies. Whelping will need human intervention only for the following circumstances:

• If the mother dog cannot bite the amniotic sacs open or chew through the umbilical cords.

Puppies suffocate if they stay in the amniotic sacs for more than 8 minutes after whelping. They need to move around, so cutting their umbilical cords is essential.

If the mother of the dog doesn’t do these steps or can’t do them, you must do it for them. Tear the amniotic sacs apart with clean hands. Using sterilized scissors, cut the umbilical cord and bind it with a piece of string or floss.

• If the mother dog cannot or does not lick the puppies’ to make them take their first breath.

You can follow any of these methods:

• 1. Simulate the sucking of a mother dog by rubbing a clean towel on the puppies. Be careful, but keep the force steady especially on the sides of the bodies of the puppies. In their first breaths, this should make the puppies suck.

• 2. Assist the puppies by wiping off their noses and mouths of any residual fluid. More fluid is likely to be trapped inside the noses of the puppies. One at a time, hold a puppy at an angle so that its head is facing down. Use a bulb syringe to suck out the fluid from one nostril. Then blow some air into the mouth with the bulb syringe. Do the same with the other nostril.

• 3. Do the puppy CPR. Cover with your lips the nose and mouth of the puppies and softly blow. Then blow all the air out at once, without taking a deep breath. Their lungs are still very small and can’t manage a big air rush.

Check for heartbeats of the puppies. If they beat, rub them for about 20 seconds in a towel and repeat the operation of breathing. If they don’t have heartbeats, then you’ll need to press the area close to their hearts to do the CPR again.

It may be better for a vet to do these processes if you do not have the right training. One wrong move might break a bone, push the fluid into the nose even further, or puncture the lungs.

3. Reasons why mother dogs cannot care for puppies

There are many reasons why mother dogs cannot or will not be able to care for their puppies. Some of the most common reasons are:

• The mother dog might be undergoing a very painful or complicated whelping. The pain could be overriding her instinct to care for her pup.

• The time between whelping could be fast. The mother dog might be cleaning other puppies when the next one comes out.

• The mother dog might detect an illness in a puppy and thus reject it.

• The mother dog might die from whelping.

4. Caring for orphaned or rejected puppies

Whatever the reason may be, you will need to take care of the orphaned or rejected puppies. Try to do the following:

• Keep the puppies warm. Prepare a small box lined with blankets. Put a heat lamp near but not over the box. Putting it too near the box might overheat the puppies.

• Give them puppy formula every two to three hours.

Puppy formulas should have high calorie and protein content. Minerals, trace elements, and vitamins should also be present in these. The proteins are particularly essential to help the muscles and organs of the puppies grow.

Do not feed them cow’s milk because this will be too hard on puppies’ stomachs. Many puppies will have diarrhea if they drink this type of milk.

Puppy formulas often contain oils from vegetables and egg products. Highly delicate stomach puppies may have adverse responses to these ingredients. Goat’s milk is the best alternative to cow’s milk as it is less processed and easily digestible.

Try these puppy formulas:

• Esbilac Goat’s Milk contains dehydrated goat’s milk. It also has over 30% protein so it will give puppies what their bodies need. It’s costly though.

• Nutri-Vet Milk Replacement Powder for Puppies contains animal and vegetable fats, dried whey, sodium caseinate, and other ingredients. It is veterinary-formulated. Nutri-Vet is part of the National Animal Supplement Council, which is a non-profit organization that aims to improve the health of pets like dogs and horses.

• Happy Dog Baby Milk Probiotic 30/30 has low lactose content, and it contains whey fat powder, soy protein concentrate, gelatin, skimmed milk, and other ingredients. Its probiotic can stabilize the digestive systems of puppies that have diarrhea.

• Use a warm cotton ball or cloth to stimulate the puppies to pee and poop. The pee is very little at first. The poop should be soft but not watery.

• Massage the puppies very gently to simulate a mother dog’s grooming skills.

• Commercial puppy formulas do not have colostrum. So abandoned or rejected puppies do not have antibodies that fight against diseases. This would mean that these puppies might be prone to illnesses. Take the puppies to the vet for a check-up.

1-3 Weeks Old Puppies: Eating and Sleeping Phase

1. Physical and behavior changes

Puppies continue to focus on eating and sleeping during these weeks.

When Do Puppies Open Their Eyes?

They begin to open their eyes during their second week of life. But their eyesight is still unclear because a gray-blue film covers their eyes.

Their ears begin to work properly, though, when they are 14-18 days old (2-3 weeks).

They cannot walk yet. They crawl on their bellies instead.

They still need stimulation to pee and poop during the first two weeks. They begin to pee and poop on their own during the third week.

Their baby teeth begin to come out.

2. Caring for the puppies

They do not respond to a human’s touch during this time. Even so, keep touching them with clean hands to let them get used to you and your scent.

Introduce puppies into the sounds they’re going to hear in the house. These could be music, plate clinking, or people talking. Slow down the process. The puppies are adapting to a new setting. By introducing them to a loud environment all at once, you don’t want to add to their stress.

You can already start training puppies not to bite. Play with your puppies mouths. If they start to bite, quickly switch your fingers with a chew toy.

Do not punish puppies who accidentally bite you. They might develop an anxiety disorder, and their biting might become worse.

3-8 weeks old (1-2 months)Puppies: Exploring through socialization phase

1. Physical and behavioral changes

When Do Puppies Start Walking?

The puppies start to wobble and walk during the 4^th week (1 month) of their lives.

Their eyes begin to lose the thin film layer. Their eyesight starts working properly when they are around 8 weeks old.

When the puppies have a full set of baby teeth, the mother dog begins to wean her litter. The teeth are very sharp and can be painful when the puppies suck. Many puppies get completely weaned by 6-7 weeks.

The puppies are not fazed by anything at this stage. They will explore and start wanting to get out of their nest. Their mouths are their primary tool to learn.

They also start to socialize and play with their litter-mates. Play-biting starts at this phase, which is why they need some discipline from their mother.

2. Caring for the puppies

When weaning begins, introduce strong dog food. You can offer puppy food, wet puppy food, or puppy kibble with puppy formula or water softener. The puppies are less likely to nurse as they become more accustomed to eating dog food. Alternate puppy formula and dog food for orphaned puppies.

Consult your veterinarian about the vaccinations of your puppies. Puppies who are not growing as fast as their litter-mates need a special check-up.

Continue exposing the puppies to stimuli of humans and the environment. You can play with them, but do not make them afraid. They might be so surprised by a boisterous sound that they begin to fear any loud noise in the future

Supervise them all the time to make sure they do not eat something harmful. If you cannot supervise them, keep the puppies in an appropriately-sized fenced area. Put toys in this area to keep them entertained.

Conclusion

The puppies are going to be bundles of energy and life force by 2 months. They are going to undergo many physical, cognitive, and social modifications. So the adults around them should provide a lot of help, care, and guidance— whether dog or human. It’s an enjoyable time for them to appreciate every moment as well.

Related tips:
1. 5 Guides to Consider Before Bottle Feeding Newborn Puppies
2. 7 Simple Steps on How to Begin Weaning Puppies: Growing Up

The post When Do Puppies Open Their Eyes & Start Walking? 0-8 Week Newborn Puppies Physical Changes and Care first appeared on PetXU.com.

With that in mind, the very next phase of puppy development requires independence, a moment when they are beginning to wean from their mothers and begin their first steps towards becoming a bigger and stronger dog. So, this short 7-step guide has been prepared to educate you on how to start weaning puppies and steer their growth in the right direction. But let’s first discover what “weaning” actually means before we move any further towards these seven steps!

What is “Weaning”?

By definition, weaning implies accustoming to food other than the milk of its mother, and in the context of puppies, it is the gradual process of puppies growing accustomed to puppy food rather than depending on the milk of their mother.

While the milk of their mother is filled with healthful nutrients that are equipped to make them strong, it is only natural for puppies to start steering away from this over dependency and start eating real food. Not only for their growth, but also the mother’s health concerns, because starting too late can cause milk overproduction and lead to the dog’s mother health problems which we should always prevent as much as possible.

Weaning is best introduced a few weeks after, and around week three or four is the most optimal time to start this process, as the puppies will also be more willing to seek for new food if encouraged. So, knowing that your puppy is in the best time to proceed to the next stage of puppy growth, here are the seven most significant steps that you will have to take to guarantee a successful weaning process:

7 Steps on How to Begin Weaning Puppies

1. Introduce Them to Puppy Food

The first and basic phase of weaning puppies is, to gradually introduce them to puppy food from week 3 onwards. You can do this by merely preparing a distinct bowl filled with puppy food or formula, mixed with some milk and water so that your puppies can slowly start to acquire the taste of puppy food. You can slowly but surely begin to decrease the quantity of milk or water you mix with the puppy food until their diet consists of completely dry kibble or puppy food choice.

Keep in mind that this is a slow but very important process, so don’t take things too fast. Your puppy will begin with a bit of curiosity, but they will surely enjoy the heck out of puppy food given enough time and help. They don’t have the biggest of stomachs though so you may need to divide their puppy food eating times into four different small meals for the whole day.

2. Always Keep Water Ready

Next, there is the prospect of keeping water ready no matter what the situation turns out to be because water is essential for growth, other than for hydration purposes. Water helps greatly with chowing down on puppy food because these little pups have been so used to the milk of their mother that they need some additional assistance to moist the dry kibble they are expected to move to. And having a bowl of clean, fresh water not only keeps them healthy but also encourages them to take a sip or two to assist eat and digest all the new food.

Water is also beneficial in the broader sense because of its hydration, of course, and after a day of running around and tumbling so often, any puppy will have to drink some clean, fresh water easily. Water makes the transition from milk to puppy food much easier because they wouldn’t have to look for their mom to quench their thirst and now they can only rely on the clean, fresh water that you always set up every day!

3. Separate Them from Mommy

The third step towards a successful weaning process for puppies is to separate them from their mommy so that they can start feeling independent and need not constantly search for their parent. Puppies are babies at the end of the day, and when they can’t find mommy, they will start whining and begin to get rowdy about where their mom might be hiding. All this is for a good reason, however, and it is to encourage the puppies to try the puppy food rather than returning to their mother’s milk by default.

While this will not occur overnight magically, moving the mother dog to another portion of the house, taking her on walks, and separation during puppy feeding time will significantly assist the weaning process. And you can expect the puppies to become very powerful and autonomous through this.

4. Monitor Your Puppies

The fourth step is to monitory your puppies, not everyone’s experience with weaning puppies will be the same, and that is perfectly fine and normal. A little variation is the only standard in the world, and the solution is to cope with variety and make sure you monitor your puppy; the changes that occur, the amount of food he eats, his behavior, stools, and much more.

By monitoring all the adjustments and milestones that your puppy will create, not only will it make the trip a lot more fun, it will also offer you a more comprehensive look at the growth and journey of your puppy throughout the weaning phase.

This monitoring sheet and notes will also serve as great reference material for the veterinarian if ever they will need to examine and diagnose your puppy to check on their health conditions. Overall, keep an eye on your puppy as being observant is an important trait to becoming a responsible dog-owner.

5. Help Keep Them Clean

Weaning puppies from their mother can get pretty messy because they won’t know how to handle themselves properly by then, which is why it is also very important that you help keep them clean and look out for themselves.

Messes generally occur when they try puppy food mixed with some milk formula or water-moistened, they may end up playing with their food, or they may get some messed their coat while attempting their utmost to eat. Again, they’re only puppies and still need some guidance, so it’s perfectly normal for them to be clumsy and klutz like that–but it’s up to us as an owner to make sure they’re in perfect condition.

Just make sure to keep a close eye on them during feeding time and to check them up now and then to ensure that they didn’t end up getting themselves into a mess while you weren’t looking.

6. Stay Consistent

As always, there are no techniques for suddenly instilling habits, forcing growth, or becoming an utterly distinct thing or individual, and the same logic applies to weaning puppies. It’s a long and slow process that will require a lot of time and effort before you can start seeing any of the fruits of your work.

It is important to understand that you need to stay consistent and don’t back out immediately you don’t start getting results in just a day or two. Stay consistent with the program, and ultimately, all of these outcomes will begin to show up and trickle one by one.

Be the responsible dog owner you are and do this for the sake of your puppies who will someday grow into big strong dogs who will remain loyal companions by your side forever!

7. Adjust and Go at Their Pace

Every dog and puppy is different, and not one of them will share the same speed and duration when weaning. While others will get the hang of it immediately after a few days or even nearly a week. On the other side of the spectrum, some puppies will probably go through the whole course of weaning for weeks on end. The significant thing to take from this is to adjust and go at their speed, enjoy the adventure of weaning with your puppies, and you’ll hardly ever notice how long it took!

Let your puppy grow properly and see to it that they get the full benefits of growth throughout this weaning process.

In Summary: Guide Your Puppy’s Growth

To sum up, weaning puppies is an important step towards moving to the next stage of growing and developing puppies, and to ensure the successful weaning process, you need to step in and guide your puppies.

There are seven easy steps you need to take and these are: introduce puppy food, always have water ready, separate the puppies from their mommy from time to time, monitor them, watch out for their hygiene, stay consistent, and adjust to the pace of your puppy.

You are well on your path to becoming a very responsible dog owner who helped his puppies start eating puppy food successfully by following these seven simple steps!

The post 7 Simple Steps on How to Begin Weaning Puppies: Growing Up first appeared on PetXU.com.

There are so many types of vaccines, that things can get a bit confusing at times. Perhaps you ask yourself ‘is all of this really necessary?’. Some vaccines truly are essential for your pup, while others such as the one against Lyme disease are optional. I’ve listed below the available vaccines which you can avail of at your local veterinary clinic. Your vet will discuss a detailed vaccination program with you so that you ensure the optimum growth and health of your puppy.

What are Vaccines?

Vaccines are developed in order to help the body ward off infections. These contain antigens, which are pretty much like the disease that causes sickness, but they do not make the puppies sick. Once the vaccine is injected into the body, the immune system is stimulated so as to prepare the body for a possible attack of that particular disease, say for example canine distemper. And if a real disease attacks the body of the puppy, the immune system will recognize it and ward it off or at least reduce its effects.

There are basically two categories of vaccines, namely the core and the non-core vaccines. The core vaccines are the ones needed by puppies to fight off diseases. On the other hand, non-core vaccines are optional, thus being required depending on the animal’s exposure to the disease, its lifestyle or geographic location.

What vaccines do puppies need? (Core Vaccines)

1. Canine Distemper: This is a serious and highly contagious disease which is caused by a virus which targets the nervous, the gastrointestinal, and the respiratory system of a puppy. It is easily spread through sneezing and coughing. Sharing of water and food bowls is also a form of canine distemper transmission. In addition, it can also be spread by means of blankets, clothing, and brushes. A pup can easily catch it if it is not vaccinated.

If the mother of the puppy is vaccinated against canine distemper, she can passively immunize her puppies up until weaning. After weaning, the puppy should be given a shot against canine distemper.

If a pup is infected, the symptoms include high fever, coughing, diarrhea, seizures, twitching, paralysis and then death. There is still no cure for this viral infection and treatment only revolves around care to avoid secondary infections.

2. Canine Hepatitis: A highly contagious viral disease which affects the liver of the puppy. The virus is transmitted through nasal discharge, the urine, feces and blood of infected dogs. If a puppy is exposed without having been previously vaccinated, it can easily catch the virus.

Symptoms include abdominal pain, fever, lethargy, and an enlarged liver. This viral infection can be prevented through vaccination. This disease develops rather quickly – the pup may be healthy one day and then become very ill the following day.

3. Leptospirosis: This is a bacterial infection which may not present any symptoms. It is usually described as a zoonotic disease, which means that it can be passed on to humans. All the more reason to get your pup vaccinated against this bacterial infection.

During the latter stage of the disease, the symptoms will begin to manifest in the form of fever, jaundice, loss of appetite, diarrhea and vomiting, pain in the abdominal region, and in worse cases, kidney failure. It can also cause the puppy to suffer from extreme pain.

The only way to prevent this health problem is by vaccination. Not only does the vaccine provide protection to your puppy, but it also protects you and your loved ones from contracting the disease as well.

4. Parvovirus: This virus is pretty much transmitted to dogs the same way as canine distemper. There are two forms of parvovirus. The first one results in inflammation of the heart muscle. Once infected, the puppy will collapse and die due to heart failure.

The second form is the parvoviral enteritis. The symptoms include foul-smelling diarrhea, foamy yellow to brown vomit and abdominal pain. Immunization against parvovirus is the best defense a puppy can get.

5. Parainfluenza and Tracheobronchitis: This refers to the viruses that infect the upper respiratory tract of the puppies. Tracheobronchitis is also referred to as kennel cough. These viruses are common in areas where dogs congregate such as doggie hotels and even dog grooming salons. Some may argue that the kennel cough vaccine is not necessary, but the added protection is worth the effort of having the vaccine administered to your puppy.

6. Rabies: This is a viral infection that infects the nervous system of infected mammals, including humans. Transmission is through saliva, from the bite of an infected mammal. Symptoms include irritability and frequent urination. Advanced symptoms include viciousness, drooling, paralysis and death.

The aforementioned vaccines are the so-called core vaccines. These should be administered to your puppy at the right age in order to prevent them from getting infected by diseases.

At what age are core vaccines administered to puppies to fight off diseases? (when to vaccinate puppies?)

The usual shots which are given to puppies are called 5 in 1. This means that one injection or shot already includes vaccination against five types of diseases, namely: canine distemper, canine hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvovirus, and parainfluenza. Four shots of the 5 in 1 vaccine are needed for the dog to receive complete immunity from virus and bacterial diseases.

• 6 to 8 weeks of age: The first shot of 5 in 1 vaccine is administered
• 10 to 12 weeks of age: The second shot of 5 in 1 vaccine is administered
• 12 weeks: Puppies are given an anti-rabies shot
• 14 to 16 weeks: The third 5 in 1 vaccine is administered
• 18 to 20 weeks of age: The fourth and last shot of 5 in 1 vaccine is administered

Take note that your puppy must be in a healthy state when receiving the vaccines. They should not exhibit signs of lethargy, loss of appetite, and abnormal body temperature.

Why are puppies given a series of four vaccine shots of 5 in 1?

Perhaps you are wondering how come your puppy has to go back to the vet clinic almost every two weeks for a series of 5 in 1 vaccine (a total of four times). Newborn puppies carry antibodies from their mothers in their bloodstream. These antibodies provide protection from virus and bacterial infections. However, they slowly fade as the puppies get older.

Research shows that puppies carry these antibodies with them up until the age of eight weeks old. This is why the best time to administer the first shot of 5 in 1 is at eight weeks of age. But not all puppies are the same, some may still carry their antibodies when they’re ten or twelve weeks old.

If a puppy receives the first shot of vaccination at a time when the mother’s antibodies are still in its bloodstream, the maternal antibodies will kill the antigen in the vaccine, rendering it futile. This is the reason why puppies are given a series of 5 in 1 shots – there are no tests that can determine if the mother’s antibodies are still active in the puppies’ bloodstream.

What are the non-core vaccines and when are they administered to puppies?

If you are wondering whether you should give your pup non-core vaccines or not, you should know that it all depends on the lifestyle of your pup. For example, if you think you will fly with your dog oftentimes, then it is a good idea to give it non-core vaccines. If you live in a place where there is a prevalence of certain ailments such as Lyme disease, you should also consider non-core vaccines for your furry pal. Listed below are some of the illnesses warded off by non-core vaccines:

1. Lyme disease: This disease is prevalent in Northeast or Upper Midwest of the US. The deer tick is known to spread this disease. Since dogs come into contact with deer quite often, they are prone to catching the disease. Lyme disease causes kidney damage.

The vaccine is given at 14 weeks of age. Two doses are administered at two to four-week intervals.

2. Kennel cough: The vaccine against Kennel cough is normally administered to dogs that are placed in boarding houses. This illness can be likened to the common colds in humans, which are transmitted through nasal discharge. If your puppy does not socialize ‘heavily’ with other dogs, then this non-core vaccine may not be necessary.

Given at 16 weeks of age. There are also two doses administered at a two-week interval.

3. Coronavirus: This is an intestinal disease which is highly contagious and can easily affect an unvaccinated puppy. Though short-lived, it can cause severe abdominal pain in puppies. This virus is transmitted through shared food bowls, contact with the fecal matter of an infected animal, and hanging around in dirty living quarters.

The administration of non-core vaccines depends upon the discretion of the owner and the advice of the veterinarian.

What are the common side effects of puppy vaccinations?

The benefits that your pup will get from vaccines should outweigh the common side effects. There are no known adverse reactions reported, but any type of vaccine can have some mild side effects on puppies. These can include lethargy, pain in the injected area, and slight fever. However, they are short-lived and will not endanger the life of your puppy.

Conclusion

Newborn puppies are protected by their mother’s antibodies, which keep them safe from virus and bacterial infections. However, once they are weaned, they need to be vaccinated with core vaccines. A total of four shots is required for the puppy to become fully immune from contagious diseases. It is highly advisable that you complete all four shots of core vaccines plus anti rabies, lest you put the health of your puppies at risk.

The post Knowing When to Vaccinate Puppies and What Vaccines Puppies Need at a Certain Age to Fight Infections first appeared on PetXU.com.

I have always said that puppies are just like babies – they need attention, care and most importantly, their mother’s heat and milk. But unfortunately, there are instances where the mother dog cannot provide what her pups need. So, as pet owners, it is our responsibility to protect them, care for them and make sure that they will grow up healthy and strong.

I have a newborn puppy, what should I do?

Let’s dive into a clear scenario: You have a pup, but you do not know what to do. They start crying, you panic, so you decide to go to a pet store and start buying all the things that you think your pup needs.

That is so wrong! There are so many unnecessary things in a pet store that you do not have to buy even if the label says they are for newborn puppies.

You should always keep in mind that puppies have different needs compared to older dogs. Dogs who are old enough can do things on their own. You can dress them up, let them go outside, give them dog food and let them drink water and milk from a bowl. All of that is uncommon when it comes to newborn pups, though.

Puppies still need guidance, especially if they are orphaned, rejected or abandoned. In such situations, the little ones are very fragile and sensitive, so the whole situation can be scary for the owner. But do not panic! Panicking is the last thing you should be doing, because it might affect your decision-making and parenting skills.

As first-time pet owners, there is a big possibility that you might choose the wrong feeding method for your puppies. Bottle-feeding a newborn pup is the most common method, however, there are instances when your puppy cannot or will not nurse from a pet nursing bottle. It is fine, you do not have to worry about it, because syringe-feeding might help you to solve this problem.

One of my friends told me there are different ways to feed puppies and that sometimes it depends on their age. She told me it is advisable to feed a less than two-week-old pup through a syringe (one without the needle tip, of course), because their mouth is too small and will not adjust well to the nipple of the pet nursing bottle.

Manually feeding your puppy is the solution when they refuse to drink from a bottle or have trouble nursing from it. Pet owners nursing newborn puppies should keep in mind that picking the right syringes is really important – pick the ones clearly marked with milliliter lines. Use one syringe per day and throw the old one – do not use it again! Remember, newborn puppies can easily get sick, as they are more prone to contracting bacteria.

When should I start bottle-feeding my puppy?

Everybody will agree with me if I say syringe-feeding is more difficult and more time-consuming than bottle-feeding. But there is no need to feel frustrated, because when your pup grows old enough, you can start using pet nursing bottles.

There is a right time for everything.

Just like I have previously mentioned, it is best not to feed less than two-week-old pups through a bottle, because they are still in the adjustment period and their mouth is too small for it. Pups at this age need to eat every two or three hours, but be careful not to overfeed them, because too much milk can cause a puppy to aspirate the fluid into their lungs.

As puppies get older, the time of feeding them increases as well. When they turn three weeks old, it is more likely that they can nurse from a pet nursing bottle, and by four weeks, you should start giving them solid food. Through this transition, you can help your pup change their eating method – from drinking milk to eating dog food.

What should I consider before bottle to feed newborn puppies?

Now, things at this stage are a bit easier to control than earlier in the puppy’s life. Let us say your little furball is now ready to be bottle-fed and you start thinking about buying them lots of milk and stuff. Well, again, although your pup is old enough to use a pet nursing bottle, that does not mean you should be buying the puppy things you have been eyeing for a while.

There are key points you should consider first before transitioning from syringes to bottles. Here is what you should consider:

1. Are you aware of the needs of your newborn puppy? Confer with your veterinarian.

Puppies bring enormous joy into our lives and make us extremely happy (can’t blame you, I felt that too). However, we should keep in mind that a newborn pup is very fragile and sensitive to many things.

The one piece of advice I can give you wholeheartedly is to talk to a veterinarian – never act like “the doctor” yourself. First-time pet owners or not, it is best to consult an expert about the steps you need to follow to ensure the health and safety of your pup.

2. Is it okay to feed newborn puppies any kind of formula? Know the right formula for your newborn puppy.

Just like babies, there is a right formula for a newborn puppy. Of course, the mother dog’s milk is the best, no question on that one. However, if the mother dog cannot nurse her puppies, or worse, you are caring for an orphaned pup, the best thing you should do is to do your research and find the appropriate milk for your newborn puppies.

There are three different alternative formulas that puppies can drink: goat milk, cow milk, and pet milk. However, goat milk or a recipe based on goat milk is the best alternative for newborn pups, because other types of milk replacer such as cow milk can cause diarrhea. Other pet owners alternatively use Esbilac, a nutritionally balanced formula created especially for newborn puppies that can be used until they turn six weeks old.

Although there are different brands of milk formulas for puppies on the market, pet owners should always choose the one that most resembles what the mother dog would give the puppy.

3. Do you need to buy a regular pet nursing bottle? Choose the right bottle and bottle teat for your puppies.

There are many different styles and sizes of pet nursing bottles and nipples out there, and sometimes choosing one is pretty confusing. As pet owners (and part-time dam for our puppies), it is our responsibility to first consider the age of our puppy and only then purchase one of those cute bottles and teats.

Small bottles should work well with puppies. Meanwhile, bottle feeding teats should be about the size of your puppy’s mouth or a bit smaller. Make sure the hole is not too small or too big. The nipple should fit really well in your puppy’s mouth, so that they can suckle effectively. Most pet owners recommend Gerber bottles, because they have liners that make it possible to use the bottles without sterilizing each one of them individually.

4. Am I knowledgeable enough to take care of my puppy? Know the do’s and don’ts.

Don’t: Do not let puppies sleep anywhere they like. Prepare a blanket or a piece of clothing that can keep them warm. This is an important step, because puppies need a source of heat nearby to help them maintain a healthy body temperature.

Do: Record keeping is advisable especially if you are not the only one looking after your pet or if you have more than one puppy. It is important to note down the time you fed them and which one of your pups has already been fed. Record keeping is an effective method to avoid overfeeding or underfeeding.

Don’t: Do not let your puppies sleep without burping. Puppies are like infants; they need to burp to avoid uncomfortable air in their stomach. This is easy to do, just place a warm towel on your shoulder, put the puppies there and pat them lightly on the back.

Do: Feed your puppies right. Newborn puppies between two and three weeks old need to be fed every two to three hours every day. Never feed them by holding them on their back, as this can cause the puppies to swallow the formula into their lungs, which in turn leads to pneumonia.

5. Am I ready for round-the-clock duty

Bottle-feeding and taking care of newborn puppies can be physically and emotionally draining as it requires lots of effort, commitment and patience. Anxiety can be transferred to puppies and frustrations can lead to accidents. Just like babies, pups can also feel their guardian’s stress, which is unhealthy for them. This is why it is particularly important for you to relax and be gentle.

Don’t rush things.

If you feel too tired of carrying out your tasks as a pet owner, take a break, breath in, breath out and smile. Eat what you like and drink plenty of water — treat yourself for a job well done. Stay healthy and think positively, then return to your duty. Keep in mind that being a pet owner is just like being a parent –  time-consuming, scary and very tiring. But, just like any parent, it is our responsibility to protect, love and care for our puppies. Take the time to understand your duty before making a move.

The post 5 Guides to Consider Before Bottle Feeding Newborn Puppies first appeared on PetXU.com.

Getting a dog is one thing, but what comes after it is a pretty hard task, especially for first-time dog owners.

One thing that people usually dread is Potty Training.  We all know that this is far from magic, your pup won’t be able to learn it overnight and it will require a lot of patience and determination coming from you.

By following these ten quick tips in Hassle free potty training your German Shepherd dog, you’ll be able to learn the easiest way of training a German Shepherd pup without losing your mind in the process.

Here are some of the useful tips and things to avoid doing when Potty Training your German shepherd puppy:

1. Start at an Early Age

We all know that a German shepherd pup can easily steal your heart but don’t let that cuteness blind you from the fact that they need to undergo training early this stage.

It is crucial to input discipline at an early age because when it’s too late, your German Shepherd might not be easy to command anymore. When they grow up in an environment where they get things their way, they form a sense of dominance, and instead of you controlling your dog, they will have control over you.

Pups are just tiny beings they don’t find it difficult to stay inside crates; this is an advantage for owners they don’t have to worry about any “accidents” lying in their home once the pup is settled inside the crate.

However, owners should not let their pup defecate inside the crate, one sign that a pup needs to go is when you hear soft whimpers or crying.

2. Set a Routine

You will need to really make time for your pup and will even need to sacrifice a few sleepless nights when undergoing training.

For German shepherd pups, it is advisable to take them outside twice a day; during day time and before going to sleep at night.

Post-feeding it usually only takes 20minutes for them to digest their food, so it makes more sense for owners to take their dog out during this time.

Remember that owners need to be consistent in doing this routine, your pup will be able to make this as a habit as long as the action is repetitive.

3. Set boundaries

In the early stages of potty training, pups access inside the house should be limited to avoid “potty accidents.”

This practice will make the pup realize that the inside of the house is not the place to defecate.

Giving limited access doesn’t mean that the German shepherd pup needs to be in the crate majority of the time, the owner will need to find a portion inside the house in which the pup can move and play freely.

During this early stage expect that there will still be accidents but at least those “potty accidents” will just be happening in the area where the pup is allowed and not in random places inside the house.

4. Observe your pups gestures or body language

While caring for a German shepherd, you will see that they have different signals or motions indicating that they want to potty. The owner will need to observe their dog’s behavior in order to pinpoint their signal.

The most typical indication that a dog wants to be let out to do their business is soft whimpering that may also sound like soft crying; this usually occurs when the pup is inside a crate.

The owner might see the pup close to the crate’s door and whimpering, this signifies that the pup wants to be let out to defecate.

However, in case the pup is not enclosed in any crate the common indication that they are about to potty is when the pup is going round in circles, seems restless and does nonstop sniffling or walking in an odd way.

5. Every good behavior deserves a Reward

German Shepherd Dogs are pretty much like human beings; they have feelings too. If you see that your pup is doing his best during the training, then that pup needs to be rewarded.

It doesn’t matter what type of reward is given; it could be a treat, extra kisses, or even a surprise visit to the park.

During this time constant affirmation is very much needed when the pup is doing the right thing it is best to acknowledge it.

Giving reward can also boost the pup’s confidence, and other than that, it will give the pup motivation not to lose interest in the training.

6. Follow your Pups pacing.

As we all know, German shepherd dogs are not built the same. They may be of the same breed, or they all are dogs, but their brains and body don’t get to learn new things at the same time.

Never compare your pup’s progress to another dog, this may often lead to frustration, and the pup is the one that’s going to be punished for this. Accept your dog’s pace and work your way around it.

This doesn’t mean that you won’t enforce discipline during the training but rushing your pup into learning new things won’t help either.

7. Avoid rushing your dog when its “Go time.”

Training your German Shepherd dog to potty outside may seem unusual to the pup at first.

They will need time to adjust, and as we all know, dogs tend to find their spot first before defecating.

Rushing your dog might create nervousness during the process aside from that it might cause an issue with the health as well.

Who wants to be rushed when doing their business anyway?

8. Have a Positive Attitude

Potty training will require work from both the owner and the German shepherd dog if the owner is not taking the matter seriously expect that the pup will do the same.

From the word training, every owner should know that they will need to sacrifice some of their personal things to make way for this.

Dedication is a huge part in order to train your German shepherd dog successfully. Admittedly there will be many moments where it can be rough and very much frustrating, especially when training a pup.

In the beginning, there will be a lot of struggle since pup tends to horse around and even when you’re already in the process of training for them, it seems like you’re just trying to play. However, as days go by, they will be able to learn the difference between playing and the ongoing potty training.

Frustration is accepted, but making your dog feel your frustration through violence or through scolding is never a good idea. The training is meant to create a bond between the owner and the dog, but enforcing punishment may create a rift or fear instead.

9. Be Patient

As mentioned getting a dog is a pretty easy thing especially when it’s as adorable as a German Shepherd dog however making sure that your dog will grow up to be well trained is a whole different story.

The common reason for unsuccessful training is when the owner loses patience and eventually gives up.

Training a dog where to defecate and observing its behavior when it wants to defecate is very much complicated.

Owners will need to instill in their minds that no matter how smart a dog is things like this can’t be taught overnight.

No matter how hard or how frustrating it gets, training will only be successful if the owner believes in their dog.

10. Don’t forget to Enjoy every minute of it.

Another common mistake that owners do during training is pressuring the pup into learning the training as quickly as possible.

It will be better to have a lighter and a more loving environment when doing these kinds of training in order for the pup to have a more relaxed mood and once they’re relaxed, it will be easier for them to obey and understand the premise of potty training.

Conclusion

Dog lovers will only be the one who can relate to this especially people who owns German Shepherd dogs, once you become a dog owner you don’t see them as your pet but more of a family.

Potty training your dog is almost the same as doing it with your own child, especially when the training is successful. Even if it’s a simple task, it is considered as one of the most critical milestones in a dog’s life.

During the whole duration of the training, the owner and the pup tends to grow closer and have a deeper connection.  Having a bond with a pup, especially a breed which is as loyal as a German shepherd is a dream come true for every dog parent.

Owners need to keep in their mind that dog’s age twice as fast as a human being does, every minute and every milestone that they accomplish should be celebrated.

The post 10 Tips to Potty Training For German Shepherd Puppies first appeared on PetXU.com.