Catteries, Kennels, Hotels

Boarding facilities tend to vary depending on different factors, such as amenities and price. Ask your vet or other pet owners for suggestions or advice if you don’t know enough about the services in your area. It’s a good idea to visit your facility of choice in advance before making a commitment. The most important thing to look for in a care facility is the nature of the premises. They must be safe, clean, and dry. Ask about certification, licenses, and insurance coverage for emergency care.

Don’t be afraid to inquire into whether the staff will actually take the time to keep your pet company. He or she needs enough room to be able to move around. Ask if they have a monitoring system and, if so, how many hours a day it’s available. The kennel, cattery, or hotel needs enough employees to provide quality care for the animals.

When you find a pet hotelthat seems suitable, make sure you ask for proof of vaccination. You don’t want your pet to contract a disease. If they have certain conditions or issues, ask the hotel or boarding service if their staff can accommodate them. Most importantly, the animals at the facility need to look healthy and be clean. 

Asking a Neighbor or Friend for Help

Your pet is likely to suffer when you’re gone. One reason for this will be the changes to their routine when you’re not there. It can be a good idea to get someone you know to look after them in your home to make sure they remain in a familiar setting. Pets like rabbits and cats aren’t fans of new places and people in general. Some dogs areThanks n’t either.

When someone agrees to help out, make sure you tell them everything about your pet that they would need to know to take care of them when you’re gone. 

Getting a Pet Sitter

A pet sitter is a good alternative to a relative, neighbor, or friend. It’s not easy to find a professional sitter who is also affordable. No matter how you go about doing your hiring, meet the sitter in person before you commit to their services. There is no better way to ensure they will care for your pet well.

Ask about insurance and check their references. Give them the details they need like you would a neighbor, relative, or friend. These will include the pet’s habits and routine. Any change in these is bound to result in stress for your pet, so ask them if they can help the pet stick to them. Tell them where they can buy your pet’s usual food as well as any special treats. Leave a number at which you can be contacted. It’s also a good idea to provide a vet’s contact details along with where to reach them outside business hours.

Don’t skip any relevant health-related data. Leave a sufficient amount of medication if your pet is taking such and easy to comprehend instructions on how to give them the medication.

Leave Something Familiar if Taking Them Outside the Home

If you decide to take your pet to a hotel or boarding facility or to someone else’s home, provide a blanket, toy, or something else that smells familiar to the pet. Pets like hamsters and rabbits appreciate nesting material in new places. Of course, it has to be clean. 

Finally, let your sitter or the boarding facility staff know details of your pet’s behavior and personality, including likes and dislikes. Provide collars, toys, leashes, litter trays, posts for scratching, or anything else your pet will need. 

The post Where to Leave Your pet When on Vacation? first appeared on PetXU.com.

Travel anxiety and car sickness are never fun for you or your dog. It can ruin your trip and cause your dog’s unnecessary stress. Here are the reasons why your dog becomes anxious when it is inside a car and tips on how to deal with the car sickness.

Car sickness in dogs

The anxiety of your dog is usually caused by motion sickness or trauma. Car sickness has a greater impact on the puppies. Young dogs usually grow out of it. But if your dog associates the motion sickness with the car, she may be anxious by just seeing a vehicle.

Reasons why and symptoms of anxiety and car sickness in dogs

• Trip to the veterinarian

Many dogs ride the car only if they go to the vet. And since most trips to the vet are stressful events for many dogs, anxiety ensues.

Your dog may think that a car ride is the same as a visit to the veteran. So, even before she gets into the car, her anxiety could be triggered. And the closer you are to the clinic, the more she might get stressed out.

• The movement of the vehicle

Just like humans, your dog could become nauseous with the car’s movement. She can sense the movement with her body and her inner ears. This condition affects puppies more because their inner ears are still developing. Older dogs are not as affected.

The car’s sideways motion and vibration could have an impact on her stomach. The sickness of motion is never fun. She may vomit, whine, drool, yawn, or pant excessively. Also, she could be restless and show other signs of stress.

• The sound of the engine

The sound of the car’s engine could be too noisy for your dog’s sensitive ears. She could exhibit additional anxiety signals like pawing at her ears, rubbing against the seat cover, or smacking her lips.

• Trauma

In the past, your dog might have had a traumatic experience involving cars. She might have been left in the car alone. Maybe she was vomiting in a car and was severely scolded. Unless you help her get over it, this trauma will follow her.

Prevent dog car sickness

You can train your dog to like car rides by establishing positive and fun memories that she can associate with the vehicle.

Before we start, get this tip as the owner: go slow. This is particularly important if your dog already has car anxiety. It’s not a race. Train at the pace of your dog, not yours. If you lose patience, your dog may be further traumatized.

• Desensitize your dog.

If your dog has never been inside the car, then this is a good training method. This is a good way to prevent car sickness in dogs in the first place. It can also keep your dog from getting car sick.

Start by allowing your dog to get used to the outside and inside of the car. The best part of the car for your dog is the back seat. But if she has motion sickness, it would be better for her to have the front seat.

Walk her to the car. Let her sniff it and understand that it is not an enemy or something to be afraid of.

Slowly open the door of the car. Your dog may startle with the sound, but assure her there’s nothing to be afraid of. If she wants to get out of the vehicle, let her go. Try another day again.

Without starting the car, bring her to her seat and stay with her. Give her treats, praises, and pets. Allow her to explore her official seat. Do this for a couple of days.

The next step is to stay behind the wheel and train your dog to stay at the back. Give her treats when she sits at the back.

When your pet is used to staying inside the car, turn it on. You might want to have another family member staying with your dog at the back.

Give your dog treats before and after you start the car because the sound may startle her even more than the sound of the door. Let your dog get used to the engine’s sound while it enjoys a snack. Keep her calm and happy as the engine is running.

Your dog may have panic or anxiety signs. For example, she could put her ears back or try to jump out of the car. She could also show the behavior of displacement such as scratching, licking, or sneezing.

Keep calm and positive. Show your dog that there is nothing to worry about. Give her treats and talk to her in a calm voice.

If your dog looks stressed, go back to the first step and move from there.

When you are sure your dog is ready to go to the next step, back out of the driveway. Check the reaction of your dog. See if you can go down your street or around your block for a short trip. Make sure the journey is fun.

Stop the trip and go back to your home if you see your dog becoming anxious. You can try again another day when your dog is calmer.

• Counter-condition your dog.

If your dog already hates the car, you can train her to get over her anxiety and car sickness naturally.

This procedure is similar to the training for desensitization. But it will take longer since your dog to have a negative reaction to cars already. Patience is critical to the success of this training. This is the essence of one step at a time.

Remember, don’t force her to go in or near the car. Don’t drag her to the car and put her on a leash. That’s counter-productive. You’re only going to make her anxiety worse. Do not use treats or toys to lure her either.

Allow her to go near the car on her own. If she manages to do it on her own, reward her. If she decides not to go near it, do not scold her. Try again another day.

Give her a treat and verbal reward every time she looks or takes a step towards the car. Play with her if she manages to get close to the car. Be on the lookout for indicators of stress. Allow her to get away from the car if she wants to. 

Do the training for a few minutes each day. Keep increasing the amount of time in the vicinity of the car until your dog is completely fine with staying near it.

When she is fine with staying near the car, open the door. Again, give her treats and verbal praise if she even looks at the interior of the car. You are now building her confidence to get inside the car on her own.

Putting her inside the car is the next step. You can pick her up and put her on the back seat, or let her jump on her own inside the vehicle. Do not shut the door. If she feels anxious, let her jump out of her car. Reward her if she’s with you inside.

Now you are working to change her negative feelings into positive ones. Follow the training process of desensitization. Reward her at every step, from taking the wheel to closing the door to start the engine and take short trips. Increase the distance until your dog is completely fine with taking car rides. You can go to the same location as well but take different routes.

Treat your dog’s car sickness and anxiety

If your dog already has car sickness and anxiety, here are additional methods of helping her overcome this condition.

• Create good memories for your dog from her first car ride.

Do not make your dog’s first car trip to the vet. Bring her to a fun place first.

Take her on road trips that do not involve the vet. Use the car to take her to the park or a pet store.

Combine this trip with something pleasant if you need to take her to the vet. This will subsequently let her get de-stressed. Do not combine another stressful place with the vet trip. For example, go to the park after the clinic instead of a trip to the groomers.

• Make her feel comfortable inside the car.

Put a dog bed or blanket in the car. Some dogs feel more secure in a travel crate, carrier, or harness. Some trial and error will be needed, but you need to find out what your dog is comfortable with. This will also double as your pet’s safety precaution.

Add in some of her favorite toys and treats. Puzzle toys are great things to keep her focused on the game rather than on the ride.

Play soothing music for dogs. There are albums specifically created to calm down dogs.

• Put your dog in clothes designed to calm her down.

Try the Thunder Shirt Dog Anxiety Vest. This special harness applies constant but gentle pressure to your dog’s body. The design is similar to swaddling a baby. Many owners and vets recommend it for dogs with anxiety issues. 

• Give her supplements or anti-nausea medicine.

Consult your veterinarian about your dog’s best supplement or medication to relax during the ride. In general, with no major side effects, solliquin and zylkene can be given to dogs.

Do not give your dog medication without your vet. Your veterinarian knows the medical history of your dog and unique physical needs. So, ask your vet for medicines or prescription options that are over-the-counter.

• Roll down the window a few inches.

This will make it possible for easy circulation of fresh air inside the car. But do not allow your dog to put her head out of the window. This ould make her car sickness worse.  Hanging her head out of the vehicle is also not safe for her.

• Do not feed her a heavy meal before a car trip.

A full stomach could aggravate nausea. So, feed her a small meal, so you can add treats to her food.

• Exercise or play with her before the trip.

This will lower her stress levels and calm her down. She might even spend the entire car ride asleep.

• Treat her condition using a natural remedy.

Spray pheromones on the seat of the car. Pheromones are chemicals released for specific reasons by animals. Pheromones are available for breeding, battle, and caring. They release pheromones when they give birth to calm their puppies.

Try Adaptil, which has synthetically copied a mother dog’s pheromone. You can choose a collar, diffuser, or travel spray. It is clinically proven to calm down dogs.

Put a few drops of chamomile or lavender oil on a cotton ball. Put the cotton ball in the car 30 minutes before your trip. Your pet might have a calming scent. Don’t forget to remove the cotton ball or it may be swallowed by your pet.

Try a homeopathic remedy. Nux Vomica is used for stomach problems. So, it might prevent nausea and settle your dog’s upset stomach.

Additional tips

• Do not exercise when outdoors it is too hot or too cold. Since extreme temperatures will affect the body of your dog could react negatively to it.

• Never leave your dog alone outside and inside the car. Remember that being left alone in the car can be a cause of anxiety.

Conclusion

Your dog will be the perfect companion for a great road trip. She is a beloved member of the family with whom you want to share adventures. But, unless you help your dog overcome her anxiety and car sickness, none of you will be happy. Teach her to love the car and you’re going to explore new places together soon.

The post Anxiety in Dogs in Cars: Dog Car Sickness, Reasons, Symptoms, Prevention and Treatment first appeared on PetXU.com.

What do you need to know and do as the owner if your pet has an allergy? Let’s find out.

Why is it important to recognize allergies?

You need to recognize if your dog has an allergy. You also need to know the difference between allergy symptoms and other diseases.

An allergy can be irritating and painful to your dog. It can be itchy and inconvenient. It could lead to a more serious problem, such as breathing problems. Your dog may scratch so much that a secondary infection develops. She could wound herself as well.

In addition, an allergy may be a symptom of an underlying disease. So, testing your dog as early as possible is better. This will enable you and your vet to treat the condition of your dog early.

What symptoms could your dog exhibit?

Symptoms may differ. But an itch is the main symptom. Your dog will attempt to ease this itch by licking, scratching, or chewing a spot where the allergy attacks. One or a combination of the following symptoms may be present:

• Licking, screwing, or chewing one area excessively, most commonly:
  • eye area
  • ears
  • belly
  • muzzle
  • groin
  • butt
  • ankles
  • paws
  • toes

• Rubbing body parts against furniture, walls, or the ground
• Sneezing
• Wheezing
• Fur loss or bad coat
• Red or inflamed skin
• Constantly shaking her head
• Chronic diarrhea or gas for food allergies
• Inflammation
• Scabbed skin
• Swelling body parts
• Hives
• Vomiting
• Diarrhea
• Runny eyes or nose
• Snoring (rare)
• Coughing (rare)
• Anaphylactic shock (a severe reaction that could be fatal if it’s not treated immediately)

What are the types of dog allergies?

The spot your dog continues to worry about is a big indication of the type of allergy it is experiencing. There are also many types of allergens (things that cause allergy) in and out of the house. 

• Contact – allergens, bacteria, or viruses may attack your dog’s body through contact with plants, other animals, etc. She may also be allergic to her dog bed fabric, her food bowl’s plastic material, or even her shampoo.

This type is also called atopy or allergic dermatitis because the allergy manifests mainly through skin irritation.

• Food – your dog may be allergic to food, especially protein sources, carbohydrates, dairy products, vegetables, legumes. Examples are the following:

Meat or animal products

• chicken
• beef
• lamb
• pork
• fish
• rabbit
• egg

Grains

• wheat
• rice
• corn

Vegetables

• carrots
• yams
• potatoes

Legumes

• peanuts
• soy
• lentils
• peas

Dairy

• milk
• cheese
• yogurt

According to statistics, food causes about 10% of allergy cases among dogs. Allergy is a genetic problem in the first place. But her environment can also cause her to develop an allergy.

• Inhalants – pollen, dust, mold, etc. could fill the air that could trigger your dog’s allergy. Consider also man-made triggers such as perfumes, cigarette smoke, home cleaning products, and sprays of insecticide.

• Parasites – fleas, mites, and other parasites could be biting your dog and trigger allergic reactions. It is the saliva of the parasites that cause the skin of your dog reaction.

• Infections – common secondary causes may be infections with yeast, fungal, or bacteria.

• Disease – illnesses like hypothyroidism.

• Stings or bites – your dog might have been stung by a bee causing hives.

• Medicines – your dog may have an allergic reaction to certain medicines or vaccines just like humans.

• Breed – every dog is unique, and environmental triggers play a major role in your dog’s chances of becoming allergic. But it is known that some breeds have a higher risk of getting allergies. Some of these are Beagles, Boxers, Dalmatians, Bulldogs, Golden Retrievers, German Shepherd Dogs, Irish Setters, Pugs, and Terriers.

The immune system of your dog will be compromised if it has an allergy. The major cause of the condition is the extreme reaction of her body to the allergen. Her body sees the allergen as a threat, releasing substances such as histamine. These substances cause itchiness, redness, or other allergic reactions. This is the attempt by the body to expel the danger.

Also, your dog would rarely be allergic to just one thing. Her environment can change in a heartbeat so her allergies could have more than just one cause.

Any inflammation could allow secondary infections to enter her body. The body of your dog is comprised of bacteria and yeast. But since her immune system has already been compromised, she won’t be able to fight these secondary invaders.

Since the causes could be complex, the best thing to do would be to bring your dog to the vet for the proper allergy testing and diagnosis once she shows symptoms of allergy.

The allergy should not be diagnosed. Some symptoms may appear to be an allergy, but they might be something else. Food sensitivities (a.k.a. food intolerance), for example, can cause your dog to vomit or diarrhea. But it’s not going to compromise her immune system so it’s not a true allergy.

Don’t delay the vet’s visit. The longer you delay, the more costly the treatment may become. If you delay the treatment, your dog will also suffer longer. So, the earlier, the better. 

What allergy testing for dogs can be done?

Your vet will not immediately perform an allergy test. The first test is to search for visible or external sources of allergic symptoms such as fleas, mites, fungi, or yeast.

The most common allergy testings for dogs are skin testing and blood testing. But there are other methods, especially for food allergies. Each one has its pros and cons.

1. Skin testing (a.k.a. prick testing) – a vet or a specialist dermatologist will inject small amounts of allergens in a particular order and pattern through the skin of the dog. It’s similar to a human patch test.

If any part of the skin swells within 15-20 minutes of the injection, your dog is allergic to it. Experts will know the pattern-based allergen that is the culprit.

2. Blood testing (a.k.a. serum testing) – the vet will take some blood from your dog. A laboratory will test the sample against a variety of allergens.

3. Food testing – food allergy with blood or skin testing is difficult to detect. The most effective food allergy test is to manipulate the diet of your dog.

There are two types of food testing. One type is to remove food from the diet of your dog until it shows improvement. The other type is to feed one type of food for weeks. Each type can show you which food is the cause of the allergy.

Your vet may request for a blood or skin test to find out if there is a specific allergen in your dog’s body when the culprit food is determined.

There is no one best allergy test. Since the cause can be complex, it is only normal that the treatment will not be simple.

How can you treat your dog’s allergies?

Allergies can not normally be cured. But these can be treated in different ways, such as oral medication, topical lotions, or antigen therapy that can be injected.

Every allergy is as unique as every dog. Thus, the treatments could be just one or several combinations. The right treatment depends on the allergy source, how severe the symptoms are, and if your dog has other medical conditions. These therapies may include some therapies such as:

• Anti-inflammatory therapy: your dog will need to take anti-inflammatory drugs like antihistamines or corticosteroids to stop her body from producing any allergic reaction.
• Immune modulators: this therapy modifies and reduces your dog’s itching, which is the body’s response to the allergen.
• Dietary and food supplements: This involves removing protein or grain allergy from the diet of your dog. The vet may also prescribe a specific diet or brand with hypoallergenic ingredients. Giving supplements to your dog might boost its immune system.
• Anti-itch therapy (a.k.a. anti-pruritic): This is similar to anti-inflammatory therapy where your dog takes medicine, but this therapy targets the substance that makes your dog itchy.
• Shampoo therapy: Since skin dermatitis or skin contact is your dog’s most common way to acquire an allergen, it is essential to bathe it with special shampoos to remove dust, dirt, bacteria, yeast, parasites, or other allergens on its body. It is also possible to use this type of therapy for allergies caused by parasites. Some shampoos have ingredients to help your dog stop itching, decrease inflammation, and kill parasites.
• Hyposensitization therapy: Your dog will receive minute amounts of antigens injected to desensitize its immune system. The allergy test will identify the allergen. Then very small shots of antigen will be injected every week to your dog.  Approximately 50% of dogs who underwent this therapy improve significantly. Also, about 25% needed anti-inflammatory therapy.

How can you prevent your dog from getting allergies?

The best way to treat an allergy is to avoid the allergen’s source. But it may not be possible to do it. But you can begin with small measures such as:

• keep your house and yard free of fleas and mites.
• regularly cleaning your house so dust will not accumulate.
• bathe her regularly.
• keep her toys, bedding, bowl clean.
• avoid going outside when it’s pollen season.
• feed your dog only quality dog food.
• give your dog fatty acid supplements such as omega-3 to boost your immune system and keep your skin highly moisturized.
• apply coconut oil or other oils to keep the skin of your dog healthy; the oil may also act as a barrier against certain allergens.

Conclusion

Allergies are not fun at all. The constant itching, sneezing, and other symptoms may be terrible to humans. Can you imagine how bad it is for your pet?

Helping your dog overcome her allergies will make her life more comfortable. So the sooner you start her treatment, the sooner she can return to give you kisses of love.

The post How To Conduct Allergy Testing For Dogs? Symptoms & Types Of Allergies, Treatment and Prevention first appeared on PetXU.com.

Let’s talk about how you can treat minor wounds at home. We will also look at steps to provide your dog with first aid if she has a major wound. Some remedies will be listed, including natural remedies.

Importance of cleaning and treating dog wounds

It’s obvious, but cleaning and treating even a scratch on your dog should be done promptly. You’ll be able to prevent infection and a possible worsening of the wound.

If you clean the wound properly, you can avoid incurring a large vet bill. You can build a stronger bond with your dog as well. She’ll know you’ll be there every time she suffers an ouch to make it all better.

Supplies and Equipment

You never know when your dog might have an accident. Always be ready with these basic supplies:

• Clean towels or cloths (to stop bleeding or to wrap your dog in during emergencies)

• Sterile gauze (to clean wounds and keep them dry)

• Saline solution (to wash debris and clean the wound)

• Disposable gloves (to handle the wound without infecting it)

• Medical tape or bandage (only if you know how to bandage a dog’s wound)

• Antiseptic (with povidone-iodine or chlorhexidine)

General steps in treating your dog’s wounds

1.    Whether it’s a minor or a major wound, staying calm is the first thing you should always do. You don’t have to contribute to the stress of your pet by freaking out. You have to keep yourself level-headed, even if you’re worried.

2.    Next, calm down your dog. She’s hurt and frightened. She knows not why she’s hurt. So, soothe her by petting her and talking to her gently. Make her understand that you’re there for her, and it’s going to be all right.

This is where the importance of keeping calm comes in. Your dog will be able to pick up on your body language and voice. If you keep calm, then your dog will follow you.

3.    The first thing you should address about the wound, if any, is the bleeding. The bleeding must be stopped. If it’s in small trickles, then you can stop it with clean gauze or cloth by applying pressure on the wound. Use disposable gloves to minimize the chances of bacteria from your hands infecting the wound.

If the blood comes out in spurts, your dog has likely injured an artery. This is a serious and dangerous condition (we’ll talk more about this in the first-aid for your dog’s major wound).

Steps for cleaning and treating dog minor wounds

1. Place her on top of a counter or table if your dog is from a small breed. Ensure counter the or table is bacteria-free and clean.

If you have a large dog, place her in a clean area in your house. You will be able to treat her better if you can reach her wound easily.

2.    Stop the bleeding. You can start cleaning the wound once this is done. Check the body of your dog for other cuts that may not bleed.

3.    No matter how small the wound is, it’s always better to treat a wound without any hair surrounding it. The hair could be a source of infection.

Isolate the wound by shaving or trimming the hair around it. Use a clean gauze or cloth to wipe away the trimmed hair.

If you think the hair can’t be shaved or trimmed, don’t touch it. You might nick the wound and make it worse.

4.    Wash the wound thoroughly.

A saline solution is the best cleaner. It has antibacterial properties that are disinfecting. It is also gentle to the wounded tissue. Squirt the solution to the wound and keep washing for at least 5 minutes. If the wound is on a paw, soak it with the saline solution in a bowl or small bucket.

Commercial saline solutions can be purchased. But you can make your own home-made saline solution as well. Use Epsom or salt from the sea. These have minerals for healing purposes. Mix 1 cup of boiled water with 2 teaspoons of salt.  Dissolve the salt. Wait for the bearable temperature of the mixture.

You can also clean the area with soap and water then rinse with a saline solution.

Use hydrogen peroxide to disinfect the wound if you are sure that your dog’s body can handle it. Whether this ingredient can prevent tissue from healing or whether it is safe for dogs to use is still a big debate. Regardless, be sure you dilute it first if you use hydrogen peroxide. Mix 1 part of a 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide with 3 parts of water to dilute.

Don’t use disinfectants that have phenols as an ingredient because it might be toxic to your pet.

5.    Pat the wound dry with another clean cloth or sterile gauze. Avoid rubbing the wounded area. Rubbing it might cause your dog more pain or make the wound worse.

6.    Apply an antiseptic solution to clean up the wound further and prevent infection. Look for an ingredient that contains povidone-iodine or chlorhexidine. These ingredients kill bacteria. But they are safe for pets. 

7.    Apply a pet-safe ointment on the wound to encourage healing. Consult your vet before giving your dog topical antibiotics.

It is better to use ointments or topical antibiotics spray version. If you spray, you it can apply it faster. If it is applied this way, the wound would also absorb it more quickly. But your dog may be scared by the spray sound. Or you might sting your dog with the solution. Also, be careful not to spray the solution in your dog’s eyes if you use a spray version.

Avoid using steroids like betamethasone or hydrocortisone. These could interfere with the wound’s healing process.

You can use a topical cream, but your dog might lick it right away. Prevent her from reaching the ointment or from scratching the wound open with an Elizabethan collar or cone.

8.    Unless you have the permission of your vet, do not apply a bandage over the wound. The bandage might limit the flow of blood and make the wound worse. Many veterans recommend healing wounds in the open air.

9.    Check the wound daily. Clean it if necessary. Re-apply the ointment twice or thrice a day until the wound is healed.

Natural remedies for treating minor wounds

• Use rinse, spray or wash with herbs that have antibacterial and healing properties. The following herbs can be used:
  • leaf and root of comfrey,
  • blossoms of St. John’s wort or calendula,
  • leaves and blossoms of lavender,
  • chamomile.

Comfrey is especially good at healing because it has allantoin, which stimulates cells to grow.

To prepare the herbs, brew for each cup of boiling water 2 teaspoons of dried herb or 2 tablespoons of the fresh herb. Let it steep until it’s cool. Strain. Use it. The extra should be refrigerated.

• You can also use apple cider vinegar directly on the wound. Or you could blend herbs with the vinegar.

• Use essential herbal’s oil from the above-described herbs. First, dilute the oil. Since an essential oil has a very strong smell, the undiluted oil may be too strong for the smell sensation of your dog.

Mix about 10 drops of essential oil with a tablespoon of carrier oil.

• There are natural antibacterial properties of coconut oil. Most dogs love to lick it so you might want to put your dog in a cone as you apply it and let it soak in the wound.

When to bring your dog to the vet

You’ll know that it’s time to bring your pet to the veterinarian when the following circumstances occur:

• The wound is to the eye or near it. Any delay in professional care could result in your dog’s permanent loss of vision. Don’t think twice of this type of wound.

• Another animal bites your dog. The mouth of an animal is filled with bacteria. There will always be a chance of infecting your dog through an animal bite with rabies or other bacteria. Even if it is small, any bite wound should require evaluation by a vet.

• The wound is so big that it needs stitches. Only a professional can do this.

• The wound punctures the skin and into the muscles or tendons.

• The wound swells or there is pus. This means the wound is infected.

• The wound changes into an unhealthy color instead of a healing natural pink color.

• The wound becomes infected or appears infected. Any sign of infection will require a trip to the vet for an emergency.

• Your dog is weak, shivering, or has a higher or lower temperature than normal.

First aid for major wounds

You can provide first aid care to relieve the pain of your dog on the ride to the vet if you need to carry your pet to an emergency clinic.

1. As noted above, the most important thing to do is to stop the bleeding. Apply pressure on the wound with a clean towel, cloth, or gauze.

2. Keep the pressure for approximately 3-5 minutes. This is going to be enough time to clot the blood. Don’t press for less than 3 minutes. If you keep applying pressure, then check it every minute, you might stop the clot from forming and delay the blood from stopping.

3. Put a tourniquet if you know how to do it. Do this only if you know how to do it. An incorrectly made tourniquet could worsen the wound, crush muscles, or severely stretch arteries. And the worst case might be that because of an improper tourniquet, your dog will need an amputation.

4.    Avoid the use of human medicines for your dog, especially pain killers. Even if some people give their pets human medicine successfully, your dog should be safe. Only give medicine if prescribed by the vet.

Additional tips

• If you treat your dog, get one or two people to stand by. If she’s anxious or scared, you’ll need someone to help you restrain your dog gently or put a muzzle on it. You have to think about your safety, especially when dealing with your injured pet. Her injury could make her aggressive. When you touch her wound, she could instinctively bite you.

If you know that you will not be able to handle your dog, bring her to the vet. Trained professionals will be able to restrain her properly while they treat her.

Wrap her in a blanket or large towel as a protection for both you and your dog when you take her to the vet.

• If you cannot gauge how severe the wound is, it’s better to go for the safer decision. Bring her to the vet for a proper examination.

• You’ll know that healing is underway when you see new skin forming over the wound.

• While she is healing, give your dog extra love and kisses to comfort her during this trying time.

The post Infected Dog Wound? How to Clean and Treat Your Dog’s Wounds: Steps and Remedies first appeared on PetXU.com.

But these eyes — and their faces — can attract a lot of dirt. Your dog may also enjoy sticking its nose to something nasty like garbage or dead animals. Regular cleaning of the eyes and face of your dog is of paramount importance.

Health indications of eyes

Let’s talk about eyes first. Tear stains are the most visible signs of dirt, especially if your dog has light color hair. But mucus and crusts are also worrisome. These eye “boogers” or “gunk” could indicate some illness in your dog’s eyes.

If the eye discharge smells bad, or if the crusts cluster a lot in your dog’s eyes, or tears seem to be streaming nonstop from your dog’s eyes, bring her to the vet. She could be suffering from one of the following conditions:

1. Note that some breeds tend to have eye discharges. Mostly these are flat-faced dogs with protruding eyes and shallow eye sockets such as Bulldogs, Pugs and Pekingese. Sometimes their eyelids don’t work properly and tear drainage is a problem with them.

Breeds like Terriers, Cocker Spaniels, or Saint Bernards have droopy eyes so their eyelids tend to slip from the original positions and, thus, their eyes are prone to watery discharges.

2. Be alert if the eyes of your pet are too watery or too teary. She might have epiphora. Epiphora, as stated in this article, is excessive eye-watering. When your dog’s tear ducts don’t worry properly then excess tears will run down her face instead of through the ducts. Several diseases or circumstances lead to this condition. Corneal ulcers, eyela, maybe some of the more serious reasons

3. Your dog can suffer from conjunctivitis. If you see mucus that is yellow or green, you will have an idea that this is the cause of your dog’s eye disease. Conjunctivitis itself may be a sign of an even worse condition, such as allergies or eye injury or issues with the tear duct.

4. Your dog could have dry eyes. If the discharge is very sticky, then the cause could be this syndrome. This condition could come from an injury to the tear ducts, distemper, or an infection.

If you notice your dog showing any of the symptoms mentioned above, bring her to the vet as soon as possible. Your vet can find the true cause of the condition and advise you on the best treatment for your dog.

Clean eyes with solutions

If your dog’s condition is due to dirt or something that can be treated with an eye solution, your vet will tell you what the best medicine can be. It’s better to treat her eyes before you tackle her face.

Some of the products that could be recommended to you would be:

• Vetericyn Plus Eye Wash for Dogs – It’s also a safe way to wash the dirt away from your dog’s eyes. The product has an advantage that it does not have antibiotics or steroids. It is pH-equilibrated so it won’t leave a burning sensation when you put some drops on your dog’s eyes.

• Tomlyn Opticlear Sterile Eye Wash for Dogs and Cats – Is a pH-balanced sterile solution. It is so mild that it imitates the chemical components of the actual tears of your pet. It comes in a bottle that is easy to grab.

There are instructions on the solutions on how you can apply them to your dog’s eyes. Generally, you can give them as eye drops.

But if your dog does not like this procedure or does not stay still enough for a drop to enter her eye then use the swab method.

1. Wet a cotton ball or cotton pad with the eye solution. Don’t soak the cotton too much.

2. Dab the infected eye with the cotton starting from the inner part moving outward.

3. Use a different cotton pad for each eye so that the bacteria or virus from one eye will not infect or make the other eye’s condition worse.

You can also use Miracle Care Eye Clear Sterile Eye Wash Pads. This is a bestselling product on Amazon. These eyewash pads are pre-soaked with Miracle Care’s eye drop formula, which is a sterile and pet-safe solution.

Cleaning your dog’s face

Now that her eyes are clean, let’s look closer at how to clean the area which holds the eyes: your dog’s face.

In the skin folds, bacteria and viruses may breed, leading to infection. If you have a dog like a Pug or a Shar Pei with wrinkled skin, washing her face regularly very essential. The best way is to bathe and clean the eyes of your pet on a regular basis. A clean face is a sign of good health.

Bathing your dog’s face

Put cotton balls in the ears of your dog when you bathe your dog so that water does not penetrate the ear canals. Water in the ear canals may result in infection. The face is considered an area of high sensitivity. When you clean it, be very gentle. You have two options for bathing this spot.

1. The best way is to use a wet soft washcloth or sponge that’s been soaked in dog shampoo or soap.

Try not to use soap and shampoo that is for human use, even if you’re only going to use a small bit. The human ingredients can be harmful to your dog.

Try AllPetNaturals South Bark’s- Blueberry Facial for Cats and Dogs-a 3-in-1 facial cleanser, body shampoo and color brightener to really pamper your dog. It includes natural ingredients such as extract of coconut oil, aloe, jojoba, and blueberry. It’s safe for use even on puppies.

Use the washcloth to gently dry the dog’s face and neck. Clean the washcloth and rub your dog back to clean off the remnants of the dog shampoo or any residual dust on the face and head.

2. An alternative is the pour method.

Guide the dog to point down her nose and pour water over the top of the head slowly. Gently wash the face of your dog carefully not to get shampoo in your dog’s eyes. Shampoo in the eyes could burn and be painful make sure you rinse.

Casual grooming of your dog’s face

When you need to spot-clean or perform casual grooming of your dog’s face, follow these steps:

1. Make your tools ready. These include a bowl at room temperature of warm water. Do not use too hot or too cold water. When your dog comes into contact with the water, your dog may freak out. Other tools are washcloth or cotton balls and shampoo of dogs.

Do not use paper towels or napkins. These can easily break up or shred. If it is frisky, your dog might be chewing pieces of paper or napkin. Worse, bits of these materials might lodge in the eyes of your dog.

You can also use wet dog towels. Do not use baby wipes because it may not be safe for your pet to use these pre-moistened tissue solutions.

Try Arava Pet Eye Wipes. This product’s tissue is soft The formula is made from ingredients that are natural Such wipes will not even irritate your dog’s face’s sensitive skin around the eyes

2. Even if you will not pour water on your dog’s head, try to still put cotton balls in her ears.

3. Brush the fur on the head of your dog Concentrate on the hair around her mouth as it is possible for dried food to lodge there. Also, be vigilant of knots and tangles. Don’t brush too hard or you may pull your dog’s hair too roughly.

Mindful Pets Tear Stain Remover Combs are designed to help you remove crusts, tear stains, and mucus from your dog’s eyes. So, if you use this tool, you will be grooming the hair and taking away the dirt at the same time.

4. Now you’re ready to clean the face.

Dip into the water the washcloth or cotton ball. Use no shampoo yet. You’re not going to need dog shampoo or soap just yet if you’re trying to spot-clean and not bathe your dog.

5. Start on the eye area. Pay attention to any leftover crusts near the eyes.

If a crust or dirt is very stubborn then you can try adding a tiny drop of dog shampoo or soap to your cleaning tool.

You could use Bodhi Dog New Natural Tear Eye Stain Remover, which has natural ingredients and gentle formula.

The washcloth or cotton won’t be too contaminated with bacteria if you start with the eye area. This will reduce the likelihood of spreading infection in the eyes.

6. Rinse the washcloth, squeeze, and wipe the remaining part of your dog’s face. Be sure to wipe the folds under its skin. To soften the dirt, use gentle but firm strokes. Your dog might not like it if you’re too strong and might fight you.

Again, the mouth area could have dried food among the hair so pay special attention to it. This is important if your dog has a long beard.

7. Rinse the washcloth or use a different wet wipe to rinse off the residue.

8. Dry the face with a different washcloth.

Bonus method

If you don’t have access to water, you can try using a waterless pet cleaning formula.

TropiClean Waterless Facial Cleanser for Pets is a non-rinsing service that is ideal if you’re in the park and your dog has chosen to plunge her face into a mud pit. All you need to do is wash the dog’s hair with the cleanser and then rinse it out. It has all-natural ingredients for your pet to be healthy.

Tips for prevention

Yes, it’s hard to keep your dog from nosing garbage, mud, and other dirty things. But you can minimize dirt from accumulating all over her face or in her eyes. Here are some ways:

• Leave the head of your dog’s fur short to make it easier to brush. Short hair may also help prevent proliferation of bacteria or viruses. Through this article, you will learn how to trim the hair of your dog.
• When you’re in the car, don’t allow your dog to pop her head out of the window. The wind will blow dirt and debris into her face and eyes.
• Don’t get the crust out of her eyes with your bare fingers. Human fingers, especially when not sterilized, are carriers of bacteria and viruses.

Conclusion

This can not be emphasized enough: when you clean the face of your dog, be very gentle, especially close to her ears. The first step is getting her to the vet if she has excessive watery, dirty, or crusty eyes. Next, regularly bathe and groom her so that her eyes and face remain clean, bright and stunning to look at.

The post Cleaning Your Dog’s Eyes and Face: Steps and Products to Use first appeared on PetXU.com.

Here are the steps on how to clean and disinfect your dog’s kennel. We’ll also look through some of the most recommended products that you can use, plus ones you can make at home.

Is There a Difference between Disinfecting and Cleaning?

Before we start on the steps, let’s discuss the difference between disinfecting and cleaning.

Cleaning is the over-all practice of removing poo, hair, urine, vomit, and other stains or odors from the kennel.

Disinfecting is a specific type of cleaning that kills bacteria, viruses, fungi, and other microscopic organisms. This limits the organisms from developing further.

Disinfecting does not remove organic wastes. So it is always better to clean a kennel first before disinfecting it.

Why is it important to clean and disinfect kennels?

Cleaning and disinfecting always go hand-in-hand. Washing is important to remove dirt and smells from the floor. In her kennel, the dog poops, urinate, vomit, and do other things. An unclean kennel has a bad smell and looks awful.

But in addition to cleaning up such organic waste, you also need to disinfect the room of your dog Disinfecting gets rid of things we can’t see. Kennels can be a breeding ground for various bacteria and viruses. 

Canine parvovirus type 2, for example, better known as parvo, is very infectious and contagious. It can spread very quickly between dogs through direct contact with contaminated feces. And we all know that dogs love smelling and sometimes eat poop.

Even though your dog may be vaccinated, it could still contract diseases. The best way to keep your dog clean and disinfected is to keep your kennel clean.

How often should you clean and disinfect your dog’s kennel?

Generally speaking, the longer solid waste remains in a kennel, the faster it becomes a bacteria and virus breeding ground. Cleaning and disinfecting frequency depend on multiple factors. Some of the following are:

• Number of pets

How many dogs do you have? Do you have more than one? Of course, the more dogs there are, the more organic wastes there will be to clean up.

If you have just one dog, it is acceptable to clean and disinfect your kennel at least twice a month. You may have to clean and disinfect at least once a week if you have more than one dog.

• Level of activity or socialization

Is your dog always active? Does she always meet strange dogs?

If your dog does not get dirty or socialize with other dogs often, then her kennel will not get dirt or bacteria that often.

But if your dog likes running around in piles of leaves or sniffing new dogs, you’ll need to clean and disinfect her kennel frequently. You may regularly bathe and groom your dog, but she may get bacteria or viruses from her environment or other dogs.

What commercial disinfectants can you use?

Detergent and water is the basic combination to clean a kennel.

For disinfection, you might want to use commercial solutions that are specially formulated for pets. Since your dog will be staying in the kennel a lot, it is better to use environment-friendly and non-toxic products.

Instead of pure or synthetic chemicals, try to look for a disinfectant that has enzymes and bioactive ingredients. This will ensure that the disinfectant residue is safe even if it comes into contact with the body of your dog. A disinfectant that is environmentally friendly will also be good for the floor of your house.

Here are some products you can try:

• Rocco & Roxie Supply Co. Pet Stain & Odor Eliminator

This is a best-selling cleaner. It has a bio-enzymatic solution that can clean even the most stubborn stain or odor. It’s safe for kids and pets. Wood, metal, and iron will not be affected by the ingredients. It has the Seal of Approval from the Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI). This implies that you can use the product even on carpets, sofas, and other furniture.

• Top Performance 256 Pet Disinfectant

This product is not only popular in the USA, but also in the UK. Professional breeders of dogs and vets like using it. At the same time, this product disinfects and deodorizes. Even the toughest microorganisms such as parvo, streptococcus, canine distemper, and E.coli can be destroyed.  But the kennel of your dog will smell like lemon, cherry, fresh, or winter-green. The formula is highly concentrated. If your dog is very sensitive to smell, you might need to rinse thoroughly after application.

• Tom Lyn Trifectant Disinfectant Tablet

This is a very effective disinfectant that destroys 99% of the viruses, bacteria, and fungi that may live in the kennel of your pet. It can be used indoors and outdoors with its biodegradable formula. But you might not want to use it on carpets or sofas. Some users said the product changes the color of these pieces of furniture.

When diluted, a tablet gives a pint of liquid solution. It can be applied to the kennel with a mop or through the use of a spray bottle. One good thing about this product is that you don’t have a big bottle of liquid to store so it saves on space.

• PetEdge Molded Plastic Dog Kennel Deck

This is a very important product if you’re a breeder. It can both clean and disinfect your dog’s kennel. The deck is non-skid and practical. It repels odors, mildew, mold, and other bacteria. You can use it indoors or outdoors.

• Kennel Odor Eliminator

This is not a disinfectant. But it is fine if your dog’s kennel smells quite stinky. It will remove even the toughest and toughest smells efficiently. It’s cheap and easy to use as well. You can add this to your usual cleaning material. The products are safe for pets and people to use. Do not use this product with chlorine-based bleach. Its effectiveness diminishes with bleach.

What homemade disinfectants can you use?

If you don’t want to buy a commercial disinfectant, then you can make a solution from ingredients you probably have at home.

• Bleach

The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) states that there are two types of bleaches.

Chlorine bleach is called sodium hypochlorite. When consumed, this type of bleach can prompt dogs to cough, vomiting, and diarrhea. It can also cause burns in the mouth, esophagus, or stomach if too much of it is eaten by your dog (like if she swims in a swimming pool and drinks a lot of pool water).

Bleach without chlorine usually has percarbonates or hydrogen peroxide. A high concentration of these ingredients can cause severe damage to your dog’s internal organs if ingested.

So, make sure you measure the ratio of bleach to water correctly if you want to use bleach. The ASPCA recommends that 1⁄2 cup of 5.25% bleach solution be used per 1 gallon of water. If you’re using a different concentration of bleach, the organization’s website has a bleach dilution calculator that can help you with your mixtures.

Normally, before you rinse it off, you can let a bleach solution sit for about 10 minutes. Note that the metal may be corroded by bleach. Take this into account when disinfecting the kennel of your dog.

• Vinegar

Vinegar has natural properties for disinfecting as it usually contains 5% acetic acid. There is a stronger scent of apple cider vinegar than white vinegar. The latter’s scent often dissipates more quickly than the latter. If you don’t like the smell of vinegar, you could apply some essential oil to the solution.

To use this ingredient, mix an equal amount of water with vinegar. Apply to the kennel and let it sit for about 10 minutes before you rinse it off.

You can also use vinegar when you want to disinfect your dog’s food and water bowls. You can even add a half-cup of vinegar to the beddings when you wash them.

Steps on Cleaning a dog Kennel

Let’s start with the general procedure of cleaning a kennel.

1. Remove the animal from the kennel. If your pet inside, you won’t be able to clean the kennel properly. She’s just going to get in the way. Put her away from her kennel in a temporary holding area. Bringing the kennel out would be the best.
2. Take away your dog’s food and water bowls, toys, and beddings. Wash the bowls with the usual cleaner you use for plates. Then let them soak in a disinfectant that’s safe for feeding bowls.
3. Wash the beddings in the washing machine and let them air dry. If you have more than one dog, it’s best to wash the beddings separately.
4. Scoop out and scrape away all solid waste from the kennel. Sweep away hair.
5. Hose down the kennel to remove other wastes that can easily be cleaned out.
6. Prepare your cleaning mixture. It can be detergent and water. It can be an all-purpose cleaner safe for pets and humans.
7. Use the mixture to clean the kennel. Start from the kennel’s top or “ceiling,” go to the sides or “walls” and finally to the base or “floor.” Use a stiff bristle brush to scrub stubborn stains away like dried poo. Pay attention to corners, latches, hinges, and other surfaces that are commonly ignored.
8. Use hot water to rinse the kennel.

Steps on Disinfecting a dog Kennel

Now that the kennel is clean, it’s time to disinfect it. Be sure to read the instructions on the label of the disinfectant.

1. Prepare the disinfectant according to the instructions. Be sure to dilute it properly and according to the correct measurements.
2. Use the solution on the kennel’s surfaces. Pay attention to places where your dog likes to do her business (i.e. where she likes pooing, urinating, and sleeping).
3. According to the instructions, let the solution sit or steep in the kennel. Don’t let it stay too long or the kennel could be destroyed by the chemicals.
4. The kennel should be rinsed. Even if you don’t need to wash the solution, do it anyway so you’re confident there will be no chemical traces.
5. Dry the kennel completely.
6. Return your dog’s food and water bowls, toys, and beddings.
7. Return your dog to her kennel.

Additional tips

• Always make sure you’re protected from the chemicals you’re going to use to clean and disinfect the kennel of your dog. The use of gloves and other protective gear should be kept in mind. Use clothes that you won’t mind being soiled when you’re cleaning.
• Follow the label’s dilution requirements. Otherwise, the solution could dilute too much and lose its power to disinfect. Using too much of it could be dangerous to the health of your dog and could corrode metal kennels.
• Do not mix detergents and disinfectants unless you are told by the manufacturer that you can. Such two products usually balance out each other. Then, after you have washed and rinsed the kennel, it is better to apply the disinfectant.

Conclusion

Cleaning your dog’s kennel regularly and disinfecting it can go a long way to keeping your dog healthy Although this method is tiring, just think about the money you’re saving. After all, a healthy dog means fewer visits to the vet and the pet is less likely to get an infection that will need medications and treatments.

The post How to Clean and Disinfect Dog Kennels: Why? How Often? What Commercial Disinfectants? Steps and Products to Use first appeared on PetXU.com.

It’s easy to take the weight of your dog You just have to make a weighing scale of her move. Or you can take your weight, then retake your weight while carrying your dog, and do the calculation. But it’s a bit more complicated to measure the height of your dog and needs more equipment.

Why do you need to measure your dog’s height?

Before you learn how to measure your dog’s height, you need to understand why it is important to get her height. Below are some of the most important reasons:

1. Doors for your dog

A crate or kennel is one of the most important items you need for your dog. If she’s already at home, you may want to add a gate for your pet. You’ll need to know her height.

She has to be able to get in and out of the crate or window easily. Without getting hurt, she should be able to slide in. The door shouldn’t hurt her even when she’s feeling frisky and running around. Having the crate door or doggy door is recommended to be about 2 inches higher than the height of your dog.

Also, the crate should be high enough so that your dog can stretch up easily. When you buy your puppy a cage, you should be able to predict the height of your dog when she is an adult. Depending on their breed, you can use the standard average height. If you don’t take her adult height into account, once she grows bigger, you’ll need to buy a new crate.

2. Competitions and dog shows

If you are thinking of entering your dog into agility competitions or show dog competitions you should know that you need to measure her height properly.

For the agility competitions, she will be jumping over hurdles. The hurdle must be set properly or your dog could be injured while trying to jump over it.

If you want her to be a show dog, then you will also need to know her measurements. Show dogs have strict requirements for height, weight, coat, etc.

Take note of the requirements of the club or association so that you will know in advance if your dog is eligible to compete. However, if she does not meet the standards, the pet may be disqualified.

Also, you should get your dog used to people taking her measurements because the judges perform this during the shows. If she is used to measurement then during the shows she won’t be nervous.

3. Medical records

As your dog grows, her medical records should properly contain information about her height, weight, length, etc. This will help you and your vet keep track of your dog’s growth and health.

For particular, a dog’s height has no impact on whether or not she’s going to develop issues with the legs Poor hind legs, dysplasia, and wounds or diseases cause other disorders of the leg not from the size of the body of your dog. Your dog might be able to develop any of them whatever height it might have.

4. Adoption

If you are a breeder, seller, or owner, then you are required to fill out the bill of sale form. The form needs information like height, weight, age, etc. of a puppy you will be selling or giving up for adoption.

The details will assist the purchaser to prepare the equipment and gear of the puppy. It will also help buyers assess the suitability of the puppy for their homes as it will confirm the puppy’s breed. After all, if that person lives in a tiny apartment, a buyer wouldn’t want a puppy that could grow into a very big dog.

5. Accessories

Having the right measurements for your dog will help you buy her the best and most suitable leash and other accessories. If you love putting clothes on your dog, her measurements will also help make sure you don’t buy her too big or too tight clothes.

One important accessory that is affected by your dog’s height is an elevated dog food bowl (also known as raised dog food bowl).

You must place her food and water bowls at the proper height to help your dog during her meal. The top of the feeder should reach your dog’s chest. Your dog doesn’t have to strain her head and neck far down to the ground in order to reach her food. Make sure the altitude is also not too high. If with the height she is uncomfortable, she may not eat at all.

A good elevation of the feeder bowl could improve your dog’s posture and her eating habits. This is especially important for dogs with arthritis or senior dogs who might have a hard time bending their heads down each time they eat.

Whiner & Diner has wooden crates that are perfect for small to giant breeds. The crates come in six different designs and colors. Each crate set comes with stainless steel bowls.

Pawfect Pets also offers stainless steel food and water bowls of wooden raisers. The company guarantees that the stands are sturdy so that even big dogs can’t knock it over. They have three types for small, medium, and large breeds. 

What equipment do you need to measure your dog’s height?

You will need tools that are reliable and calibrated to have an accurate reading of your dog’s height. You will also need other spaces for this project. The basic things you will need are:

• Tape measures – make sure the device has the appropriate units, from feet to inches from meters to millimeters. You need to be very specific in order to make these units effective. It’s also better to have multiple unit points because you might have a customer using different measurement points. American people use feet to inches, for example, while British use meters to millimeters.
• Level – you can use a carpenter’s level or any type of level; ask your vet where you can buy one; use this on your dog’s shoulder for an accurate reading, but make sure that it does not reach her neck.
• Yardstick – an alternative in case you don’t have a carpenter’s level.
• Door frame or wall – a door frame or wall allows you to make an accurate reading of your dog’s height with a fixed point; the frame can help keep your dog in place if it is skittish during the measuring.
• Pencil – use this to mark your dog’s height on the frame or wall (you can erase it later) and to jot down all the data you will get.

Where do you measure your dog’s height?

You need to measure your dog’s withers. This is from the highest point of your dog’s shoulders to her paws. The highest point is the part where the neck and shoulder blades intersect.

If you take her height, you don’t have to measure your dog’s head or neck (these are included when measuring her length, though). Make sure that when you measure her your dog stands straight and true

This is obvious but do not include her hair when you do measurements. You are measuring her body not the length of her hair.

How to measure your dog’s height at home?

Although there are different ways to go about measuring your dog’s height, the general steps you can use at home are as follows:

1. Prepare all of your tools, equipment, and measuring area. If you’re using a wall, make sure that there are no pieces of furniture or other things that might stand in your dog’s way or distract her. Also, make sure that the surface of the measuring area is flat.

2. Have your dog stand up straight to the measurement area. Stop it from shrinking and bending sideways or downwards. She must stand upright with her arms equally spread out on all four legs. She should have her head in a normal neutral position. She’s not supposed to look up or down.

If your dog is too frisky or too young to stand still, put her on a leash and have someone hold her in place while you take the measurements. Your partner could also tempt your dog to stand straight with a treat.

3. Make sure where her withers are. Try to feel your dog’s body so you can familiarize yourself where the withers begin. Locate the point on the shoulder that is bony.

4. Place the carpenter’s level on the withers. Let one end of the level touch the wall or frame you are using. Check if it is leveled by looking at the position of the bubbles inside the tool. These should stay within their markings.

Using the bottom of the level as your point, make a thin mark on the frame or the wall. If you don’t want to make a mark, then use a small piece of tape to mark the spot or place your finger as a mark.

5. If you don’t have the scale of a carpenter, use a yardstick. Place the stick on the wall or frame and stand beside it with your pet. Change the yardstick leg until it lies on the withers of your dog.

6. Give your dog a treat and let her go.

7. Use the measuring tape if you used the level to measure the height from the mark you made down to the floor on the frame or wall. You just have to go to the next level if you used a measuring stick.

8. Make a record.

Professionals use a wicket to measure the height of a dog. This is a measurement device with a stand shaped like an inverted U and a ruler that can be modified to measure a dog’s height. If the legs of the wicket touch the ground, the dog will be considered within the height permitted. If you want your pet to be a show dog, make sure you train her to be comfortable with a wicket.

What are the average heights of dogs according to breeds?

To help you further in predicting your dog’s adult height, here are the standard average heights of some breeds that are popular in the USA based on information from the American Kennel Club (AKC) and the North Carolina Responsible Animal Owners Alliance (NCRAOA):

Summary

It can be an enjoyable bonding experience for both you and your pet to measure the height of your dog. The information you gain at each measurement will help you keep track of the growth of your dog. If you think the average height of your dog for her breed is not reached, consult your vet.

Don’t forget the treats and the praises for your pooch after you’ve completed all your measurements.

The post How to Measure Your Dog’s Height: Why, Equipment Need, Where and Average Heights Of Dogs According to Breeds first appeared on PetXU.com.

There is a growing trend among pet owners to dye their dogs’ hair in different colors. But just like anything that affects your dog, you must make sure that what you do or give to her does not harm your pet. Here is a guide on what to use and how to dye the hair of your dog to help you make the right choice for your dog.

A word of warning

Before you start your new project, always remember this warning: do not use on your dog’s hair, any hair dye that is meant for humans.

Human hair coloring has damaging and very toxic chemicals that are harmful to your dog. The bleach in some human hair coloring may irritate the skin of your dog and may cause your dog to shed fur untimely.

The pH level of human hair coloring for human skin is developed for human skin. The skin of your dog has a very distinct level of pH. Because of this difference in pH levels, she may have an allergic reaction.

Even if you want to dye a tiny portion of your dog’s hair, do not use human hair dye.

Even if you apply the hair dye carefully, there will be a high likelihood that your dog will lick the hair dye and ingest harmful chemicals.

So it is better to look for hair dyes that are specially formulated for your dogs.

What dog hair dye should you choose?

Even if you’re looking for dog hair dye, you still need to be cautious. Some dog hair dyes may still contain harmful components or may contain a formulation that may not agree with the particular breed or coat of your dog. Generally speaking, here are some tips to assist:

• Find a hair dye with ingredients safe for dogs.
• Make sure that the ingredients do not contain ammonia or additional chemicals.
• Look for the least synthetic hair dye with no or little chemicals in the formulation.
• As far as the color is concerned, ask yourself what you want the outcome to be. Pick pinks or blues or other bright colors if you want festive colors for your white or light-colored dog. If you want a more natural color, select distinct shades of browns, for instance for your black dog.

What ingredients are safe for dogs?

On the labels of dog hair dyes, look for these ingredients:

• food coloring – a source of non-toxic ingredients; technically, if it is safe to consume, it does not contain harmful chemicals so that it can be applied safely to dogs even if it is licked ; and/or,
• vegetable-based coloring – these are dyes formulated from vegetables and fruits like beets or carrots or strawberries

Also, always look for the words “safe for pets” on the labels.

What are the different types of dyes for dogs?

• Liquid – come in bottles; must be applied to wet hair either by pouring in and mixing with the bathing water of your dog or by using a brush or a spray bottle ; must be left on the hair for at least 15-20 minutes before rinsing ; most of these are semi-permanent and last even after several washes ;
• Gel and cream – liquid dyes are similar in how they are applied and their semi-permanency, but they are less messy than liquid dyes and easier to apply to small or large areas; you can even create patterns with gels ;
• Chalk – easier to use since you rub it directly on the area you want to dye; produces only temporary results though;
• Liquid pens – pens that contain liquid dyes; easy to apply like chalks but lasts a bit longer;
• Blow pens – liquid dye is positioned inside the pen, and you pass the dye through the pen to your dog’s hair; covers a large part of the fur with each blow; can be used together with the stencils for more creative outcomes ;
• Sprays – come in spray cans; very easy to apply if you know how to handle the intensity of the spray.

What are some brands of hair dyes for dogs?

Top Performance has a choice of 12 vibrant colors. The hair dyes of its dog gel are non-toxic and based on vegetables. To get a more distinct design, you can combine the colors. If you want a multi-color design, first let one color dry before applying the next color. After about six washes, the colors are semi-permanent and will fade. Because the colors are lively, when applied to a dog with light-colored hair, the gels will show better.

OwPawz also sells gel-type hair dyes for dogs. These come in tubes that are easy to squeeze. Seven colors are available to choose from. The ingredients are non-toxic as well. After about 20 washes, the colors last a little longer and will fade. This brand is somewhat more expensive than other brands.

PetPeri sells dye pen kits for temporary use. There are six pens in bright or dark colors in each kit. It also has non-toxic and safe ingredients for dogs. Colors last only for two days. If you want the design to last longer, you’ll need to get in contact with extra pens applications. Some owners have complained that when they carry their pets, the dye comes off easily and can transfer to the clothes of the owners. The pens are also small so that it could take a lot of time for the application process.

Buddy & Belle has a great line of pet-safe chalk colors. The chalk’s color is only temporary. This is best if you want your dog to sport a different color for only a day or two. If you wash your dog with her shampoo and warm water, it can be easily removed. If your dog loves to roll around on them, the chalk could also transfer to your carpet, furniture, and clothes.

You can make your own home-made dye from vegetables and fruits if you don’t want a store-bought dye. Puree the ingredients and strain the liquid. Make sure the resulting dye isn’t too sticky. Otherwise, the fur of your dog may be forming clumps or matting.

If you’re confused or undecided, consult your groomer or vet for the perfect dye for your dog and your goal.

How to dye your dogs hair?

Read the instructions on the box of hair dye. Follow all of them to the letter. If you need to mix the dye, do it according to the instructions. Otherwise, you might get a different color or consistency.

Select a space that will be used for dyeing. Cover it with old towels or newspapers. Dyeing can turn into a messy activity, particularly if your dog is frisky during bath time.  So make sure you’re not going to worry about getting the area selected dirty. Also, make sure you wear clothes that especially if you’re using a liquid dye type, you won’t mind getting dirty.

Make sure that you prepare everything you need and that the dye is ready before you take your dog to the dyeing area. Prepare treats to help calm your dog and motivate her to keep still during the whole process.

Check the body of your dog for skin irritations, sores, or injuries that are healing. If you find something on the skin of your dog, do not apply any dye, as it may further irritate the skin. It would be better to postpone the dyeing until the skin of your dog is safe again.

If you are sure that her skin has no irritation, then you can proceed with the next step.

Wash her fur. Make sure that it is clean and free from dust or dirt.

While the fur is still wet, comb it. Make sure that there are no matted furs.

Monitor your dog’s response to the dyeing process. Make sure the smell of the dye or the application method does not stress her. If she begins to lick her lips, put her ears back, or flick her tongue out more frequently than usual, then stop the process. With treats, you can reassure her. If she settles down, you can try to dye again. If she still looks stressed, stop the process completely.

Before you apply the dye all over your dog’s body, do a test first. Apply a small amount of dye in a small area. Wait for a few minutes to make sure that your dog will not have an allergic reaction to the dye.

If your dog has no adverse responses to the dye, apply it according to your desired design or pattern. Damp fur holds more dye than dry hair. Try to apply the color as evenly as you can. Put gloves on if you don’t want your hands to be colored by the dye.

You will need to let the hair dye steep into your dog’s hair before you rinse it off with your dog’s shampoo.

Do not apply dye on sensitive areas like your dog’s eyes, mouth, nose, and ears. If you still want to apply it in these areas, then make sure that you protect these areas.

For example, first apply some eye ointment if you need to put dye near your eyes. If dye accidentally enters the eyes, this may be a shield against irritation. It will reduce irritation and infection. You could also put cotton wads in your dog’s ears before you bathe her.

Also, try to avoid putting dyes where your dog loves to lick, especially when the dye is still wet and drying. You might need to place an Elizabethan collar or cone around your dog’s head until the dye dries.

If some flecks or drops of dye come into contact with your dog’s sensitive areas, flush it with cleaning solutions specially formulated for dogs.

While monitoring the stress level of your dog, also check if it begins itching. If that happens, stop the dyeing process immediately. Bring your dog to the vet to investigate the irritation. If your vet determines your dog’s skin is very sensitive, then in the future don’t try to dye your dog hair.

What is the issue about dyeing dogs’ hair?

PETA issued a statement that dyeing a pet’s hair is a cruel process for animals because it can cause stress, skin complications, allergic reactions, or even toxicity.

Last year, Good Housekeeping magazine published a story about a Maltese mix from Pinellas County Animal Services in Florida that almost died after her hair was dyed purple using dye meant for humans. The dog was burned, wounded, and skin peeling.

Summary

You probably want to dye your dog’s hair because you want people to appreciate her beauty. But to make the experience fun for your pet as well, then always remember the following:

• never use hair dyes formulated for humans;
• opt for hair dyes meant for dogs;
• always inspect the labels and make sure that the ingredients are non-toxic and safe for your dog;
• stop the dyeing process if your dog is stressed or shows an allergic reaction to the dye;
• consult your vet.

If you follow these tips, then you’ll soon have a colorful pooch in your arms.

The post Dog Hair Dye: Choose, What Ingredients are Safe? Different Types, Brands and How to Dye Your Dogs Hair? first appeared on PetXU.com.

Dogs are never going to stop shedding. But that doesn’t imply we should let our dogs shed everywhere. But dogs are not supposed to shed too much either. You shouldn’t see your dog’s bald patches or thinning hair.

Here are the reasons why dogs shed, when to know they are shedding too much, and what to do about it.

Why is my dog shedding so much and how do I know if it’s excessive shedding?

A dog’s body naturally sheds to remove damaged or old hair. Even breeds like Poodles and Maltese shed their coats, although they do it very minimally. There are, however, some dogs that shed a lot.

There are two general and acceptable reasons why a dog may shed excessively:

1. Breed

More than other breeds, these breeds are known to shed a lot: German Shepherd Dog, St. Bernard, Labrador Retriever, Siberian Husky, Alaskan Malamute, Bernese Mountain Dog, Chow Chow, Boston Terrier, Corgi, and Newfoundland.

German Shepherd Dogs are particularly known for shedding the whole year-round.

2. Weather

Dogs can shed a lot when weather shifts from cold to warm particularly dogs that develop thick undercoats during cold weather. That’s because when spring arrives, they shed their winter coats.

If you cannot trace your dog’s excessive shedding to either of the two reasons, then look for the following behavior or conditions that your dog may be exhibiting:

• One or several bald spots
• Fast and severe thinning of her coat
• Bumps, redness, rashes, or scabs
• Open wounds
• Extreme face rubbing or scratching
• Excessive licking of one spot

These could be symptoms of an underlying medical condition that needs special treatment.

What do I do if my dog sheds excessively?

If you notice that your dog is doing or displaying the symptoms above, the best and first move you should take is to bring your pet to the vet as quickly as possible. Your vet can perform a thorough examination of your pet’s condition. Delaying the examination may make your pet very uneasy and make her sickness worse.

Your vet can determine if your pet’s excessive shedding could be from the following reasons:

• Nutritional imbalance
• Bacterial or fungal infections
• Flea, mite, or lice infestation
• Allergies and other skin irritations
• Diseases affecting her kidney, liver, or immune system
• Hormone issues like imbalanced progesterone or hypothyroidism
• Reaction to a medication
• Cancer
• Sunburn

Based on the exam’s results, your vet can advise you on which treatment would be best for your dog.

What can I do to stop my dog from shedding excessively?

If your dog’s excessive shedding does not need medical treatment, then you may consult your vet about these home remedies that could help prevent your dog from shedding a lot or help alleviate her excessive shedding condition.

1. The best home remedy you can provide is to provide adequate nutrition for your pet. For overall health, she should get high-quality protein. Whether you give her kibble, wet dog food, or raw food, make sure she gets enough minerals and vitamins.

Foods high in fatty acids such as omega-3 and omega-6 are known to promote good skin and coats. These are mostly found in fatty fish such as salmon or tuna, so try to include them in your dog’s diet, whether as your kibble’s key source of protein, wet dog food, raw food, or as treats.

Omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids can also be found in olive oil, flaxseed oil, and coconut oil. You can add a teaspoon to a tablespoon (depending on your dog’s size) of any of these oils to your dog’s regular food to boost its minerals.

You can give the fatty acids to your dog through supplements like the following:

• Zesty Paws Omega 3 Alaskan Fish Oil Chew Treats for Dogs, which is highly-recommended by owners whose pets scratch a lot;
• Nordic Naturals Omega 3 Pet – Fish Oil Liquid for Cats and Dogs, which can be added to dog food; or,
• Amazing Nutritionals Omega 3 Chews, which has antioxidants not just for healthy coats but joints and brain health as well.

Again, be sure to consult your vet before offering your dog new food as your dog may be allergic to them. Or if you already give her dog food that is enriched with omega-3 or omega-6 fatty acids, or other minerals that increase hair development, she might not need them.

2. Reduce her stress

Like humans, dogs can get stressed too. They are sensitive to even the slightest changes to their routines and environments. They might lose hair as a reaction to the stress.

To reduce your dog’s stress, try to provide a predictable daily routine to her life. If you leave her alone, make sure that you leave and arrive at the same time every day.

If there are changes in her surroundings such as new individuals (a new addition to the family or a new person coming to your house frequently) or new neighborhoods, make sure that you reassure your dog that you still love her despite the changes.

Introduce the new person slowly. Make that person give your dog treats.

Take your dog for calming walks so that she can get used to her new environment.

Play with your dog so that she can de-stress and turn her anxious energy towards a more positive activity.

3. Groom her fur regularly

Brushing can help your dog remove loose hair and old undercoats. This type of grooming will make her change her coat faster. It also stimulates new hair to grow properly.

It can also stop your dog from shedding everywhere since all the excess hair will be collected in the brush. This will significantly reduce clean-up time.

You have a wide range of brushes to choose from:

• Slicker brush – the most versatile brush like the Petpawjoy Slicker Brush and the Hertzko Self Cleaning Slicker Brush can be used on any coat.

• Bristle brush – like the Greenbone All Natural Bamboo Pet Grooming Brush is used on dogs with short coats.

• Pin-wire brush – like the Oster 2-in-1 Combo Brush has bristles on one side and pin wires on the other side for deep brushing of long, silky hair.

• Rake – can remove old topcoats or undercoats; an example of this type is the GoPets Dematting Comb.

• Grooming glove – like the Delomo Pet Grooming and Deshedding Gloves can easily brush away hair and the fur sticks to the rubber or silicone tips of the gloves so shed hair can be easily put into the trash bin.

However, a blade-on – a-handle comb is the most significant brush for shedding. This type of comb has very thin metal teeth that are also explicitly intended to remove old fur and trap loose hair. You can choose from several brands:

• The Oster Shedmonster has two types of curved blades that help shed, untangle, and take out matted fur.

• The FurGOPet can remove undercoats and trap loose hair. It comes in two sizes: for smaller breeds and puppies, and large dogs. It is more affordable than other brands.

• The Furminator DeShedding Tool for Dogs has various sizes so it can groom even the thickest undercoats. Unlike other brands, it has a one-click way of cleaning up after use.

You’ll need to brush her every day, every week, or every month based on your dog’s coat. Remember, a properly brushed, glossy coat implies your dog will lose less hair and has a healthier coat.

You might also want to cut your dog’s hair regularly so that you can see where the bald spots are, to cut down on loose hair, and prevent matted hair. 

4. Bathe her regularly

Again, bathing can be performed daily, weekly, or monthly depending on the breed and amount of activity of your dog. It is often necessary to bathe dogs who are very active or love to play outdoors. Except during the shedding season, dogs with thick undercoats do not need to bathe a lot.

The main consideration is that your dog’s fur has natural oils that help maintain her healthy skin and coat. Bathing will strip your dog’s body of these oils so it should not be done often.

For your dog’s excessive shedding problem, use a specially-formulated dog shampoo that has the following ingredients:

• Vitamin E for healthy skin and hair
  • Natural ingredients, no synthetic chemicals
  • Moisturizers to keep your dog’s skin and coat hydrated
  • Omega-3 and/or omega-6 fatty acids for healthier coats

Try these shampoos:

• Furminator Deshedding Ultra Premium Shampoo For Dogs contains omega-3, omega-6 fatty acids, and natural ingredients like papaya and calendula extracts, which promote hair growth. It has no synthetic chemicals. It is considered affordable compared to other brands.
• Earthbath Shed Control Green Tea & Awapuhi Dog Shampoo is good not just for shedding but for dry skin as well. It has aloe vera and shea butter, which soothe and moisturize skin.
• TropiClean Lime & Coconut Deshedding Dog Shampoo contains awapuhi and pomegranate, which help reduce shedding. It also has omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, plus coconut and oatmeal for additional moisture.

These shampoos may not completely stop shedding, but they may help control excessive shedding and improve your dog’s skin condition.

You may also want to use some tools for bathing that also assist shedding. Try the QBMY Dog Grooming Brush. This brush has a container where the shampoo can be placed. As you use the brush over the body of your dog, you can squirt the shampoo easily. The brush is intended to remove the loose hair of your dog while bathing gently. It also doubles as a massager.

5. Put some clothes on her

Consult your vet if you can put clothes on your pet. This will not stop shedding, but it might contain the hair in the clothes. In this way, she will not shed all over the place.

Summary

You may not be able to stop your dog from shedding. But you can stop your dog from shedding excessively.

First, determine if it is shedding season and your dog comes from the breed of high shedders. If she doesn’t fall under the two conditions, then bring her to the vet.

At home, make sure that you feed her high-quality nutritious foods and supplements. Reduce her stress. Groom and bathe her regularly. Put some clothes on her, so she doesn’t shed everywhere.

If the fur is still flying all over your house and everything you own, remember that the lint roller and vacuum are your friends. Happy cleaning!

The post Dog Shedding Excessively: Why So Much & How to Stop a Dog From Losing Hair? first appeared on PetXU.com.

So, to help you trim your dog’s nails at home and give her the over-all grooming she deserves, here are some tips and tools for you.

Structure of your dog’s nails

Before we begin, let’s review the parts or structure of your dog’s nails (a.k.a. dog claws).

Your dog’s nail is made up of the following layers:

• The shell – this is the outer layer that we see. It is the part that grows long.

• The quick – this is a soft layer of nerves and blood vessels beneath the shell. It stretches from the base of your dog’s nail to close the curved portion of the shell. If your dog has whitish nails, then the quick is the pink-colored part underneath the shell. Determining where the quick ends and shell extends when the nails of your dog are dark or black is much tricky.

• The bone – the quick is wrapped around the bone of your dog’s paw.

It is important to know these parts, especially the quick, because if you nick or cut the quick then your dog’s nails will bleed.

If your dog has black nails, you may want to measure the set of nails of a different dog to know where the quick ends. Or, you may have your dog’s nails trimmed by a specialist groomer. Then you can measure the best length of the nails of your dog and use them as a guide for your future home trimming.

Importance of trimming your dog’s nails

If your dog plays outdoors frequently, it may not be necessary for her nails to be trimmed. But if she doesn’t participate in physical activity that trims her nails naturally, then you have to do it for her. Trimming the nails of your dog is essential for the following reasons:

• Hygiene – long nails will pick up dirt. So keeping her nails trimmed is important to keep your dog’s paws clean.

• Cosmetic – short nails always look better than long nails for dogs.

• Health – dogs walk on their toes so, long nails could become painful when they walk. The long nails push against the nail beds, which causes unnecessary pain or tension on your dog’s paws. The feet could then be deformed, the paws might lose traction, or the tendons of the feet might get injured. If left unchecked, the damage could become serious and even permanent.

Tools to use when trimming your dog’s nails

You have a lot of choices for tools when you want to trim your dog’s nails at home. The tools can be divided into two general categories: clippers and grinders.

1. Clippers

These come in scissor and guillotine forms.

Scissors are double-handled straight blades. Guillotines have a hole the dog’s nails pokes through. The blades are triggered and cut off the nails when you squeeze the handles.

Clippers come in regular and large sizes since dog nails come in small, medium, and large.

Some highly recommended nail clippers are:

Pet Magasin Grooming Scissors Kit – the clippers have rounded tips, so you don’t have to worry about accidentally poking your dog’s foot.

Miller’s Forge Dog Nail Clippers – these are made from high-quality stainless steel. Each piece has non-slip handles and wide blades.

PetSpy Best Dog Nail Clippers – besides the standard stainless steel blades and non-slip handles, these have sensors that tell you when you are near the quick.

Safari Professional Stainless Steel Nail Trimmers – these clippers have built-in safety stops apart from the usual quality steel and ergonomic handles, which will reduce the risk of accidental occurrence while cutting the nail.

2. Grinders

Dog nail grinders are electronic tools that have rotating emery wheels that file down nails.

Some highly recommended nail grinders are:

Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tools – have two types of filing speeds, rechargeable batteries, and different filing heads that you can interchange.

Innopaw Dog Nail Grinder – can file down different nail sizes. The wheels have a cover, and only a small part of it is exposed, so you don’t have to worry about accidentally grinding the paw or fur of your dog. But you need AA batteries to operate it.

Amir Pet Nail Grinder – has a diamond grinder as the head. It has a quiet motor, so it will probably not scare your dog with its sound.

How to get your dog used to nail trimming and the tools

You need to get her used to the process of nail trimming and the tools you’ll use before trimming your dog’s nails. Let her get used to the process of preparing and training slowly. Do it day by day if necessary.

1. It is best to get your begin trimming dog’s nails while she is still a puppy. If you do this, she will be accustomed to having you trim her nails.

If you already have an adult dog, the process of getting used to the tools and the trimming procedure will still be the same. You will be able to gauge your dog’s response better because you already understand her quirks. So, you’ll realize immediately if moving to the next step is still alright or if you need to stop.

2. Prepare an area for the trimming.

It should be well-lit because you need bright light to see your dog’s nails properly. Also, it should be in a quiet area where your dog can relax and not get distracted.

There should be a piece of cloth or newspaper that will catch the cut-off nails so that cleaning afterward will not be hard.

Your tools should be near enough that you can reach for them easily but far enough that your dog will not play with them.

Also, you should prepare cotton balls and an antiseptic that is safe to use on dogs.

If your dog is a very frizzy pup, you may need to bring her on a leash and the leash wrapped around a pole to avoid running away. But make sure this process doesn’t stress her out.

3. Gently touch a paw. Pick it up with your thumb just above the pad and your forefinger over a nail at the bottom of the paw. If she allows you to do this, give a treat and verbal praise.

Touch another paw and pick it up if your dog continues to be calm. If she looks like she’s getting stressed, stop. You can do it again the next day.

Try to keep touching and picking up her paw until she lets you pick up all four paws, one at a time, in one session.

4. Let your dog get used to the grooming tools. Give a treat and a lot of verbal praises after each step.

Make her sniff the tools. Make her understand that it is not food.

Tap her paws gently with the tools when she is used to the tools close to her. Do this very gently so that she understands that these tools are not harmful.

Open and close the tools near her nails. Turn it on for a couple of seconds if you’re using a grinder. Do not cut a nail yet. You want her to get used to the sound of the tools you’re going to use at this step.

Tap the tools on the nails, not just the paws.

When you know that your dog will not be scared of the tools, then move on to the next step.

5. If you’re uncertain about using your chosen tool, you can practice first on a toothpick or any tiny pointy object, so when you go to the next step, you can manage the tool correctly.

6. Cut a very tiny tip of one nail. Just one give a treat if she lets you do this without too much of a fuss.

Cut one tiny tip each day until you are sure she will not mind you trimming her nails. Make sure you give her a lot of treats and praises.

7. Work to cut two nails at one time. Continue to increase the amount of nails per day session. But don’t get things rushed. If you feel the stress of your dog, go back to just one nail a day.

8. Even if you don’t have any nail tips to trim anymore, keep going through the motion of cutting a nail so that your pup can get used to the process.

How to trim your dog’s nails using clippers

1. Make your dog comfortable in the trimming area.

2. Now that your dog is used to you touching her paws, pick up a paw. Use your thumb to press the pad gently. Use your forefinger to stretch the nail at the same time.

3. Look closely at where the quick ends.

4. Start trimming from tips, particularly if there are black nails in your dog. Cut just 1-2 mm. Check the nail and cut 1-2 mm more. If you see the cross-section changing color from white or black to tan, you’re already close to the quick and should stop cutting.

5. Keep the cotton balls and antiseptic prepared in case of an accident. Do not panic if you clip the quick. Soak the cotton ball with antiseptic and apply it to the bleeding nail. Stop your dog’s trimming and comfort it.

Try again after a few days.

6. If the nails have rough edges, use a nail file to smoothen them out.

7. Give a treat when the trimming is successful.

How to trim your dog’s nails using grinders

1. Make your dog comfortable in the trimming area.

2. Collect one paw. Use your thumb to press the pad gently. Use your forefinger to stretch the nail at the same time. Take note of the quick.

3. Turn on the tool and grind the nail tip while counting to two. Lift it off the tip, look at the cross-section, and grind for another count again. Stop when seen the tan oval signaling the quick.

4. Keep the cotton balls and antiseptic ready in case of an accident.

5. Give a treat when the trimming is successful.

Final tips

You must get your dog used to the process of trimming. You also need to get used to cutting the nails of your dog. So, slowly do every step. Being safe and stress-free is better than being sorry. And reward your dog and yourself after a trim session.

The post How To Trim Your Dog’s Nails At Home Using Grinders and Clippers Tools? first appeared on PetXU.com.